
WASHINGTON - Food containing olive oil can carry labels saying it may reduce the risk of coronary heart disease, the government says, citing limited evidence from a dozen scientific studies about the benefits of monounsaturated fats.
As long as people don't increase the number of calories they consume daily, the Food and Drug Administration (news - web sites) confirmed a reduction in the risk of coronary heart disease when people replace foods high in saturated fat with the monounsaturated fat in olive oil.
That means a change as simple as sauteing food in two tablespoons of olive oil instead of butter may be healthier for your heart.
"Since CHD is the No. 1 killer of both men and women in the United States, it is a public health priority to make sure that consumers have accurate and useful information on reducing their risk," Lester M. Crawford, acting FDA (news - web sites) commissioner, said in a prepared statement.
"It's good news for consumers," said Bob Bauer, president of the North American Olive Oil Association, which sought the qualified health claim on Aug. 28, 2003. "Olive oil is a healthy product to help them fight heart disease."
Recent research has underscored the heart benefits from so-called Mediterranean diets high in unsaturated fats from vegetable oil, nuts and such fish as salmon and tuna. Mortality rates dropped by more than 50 percent among elderly Europeans who stuck to such diets and led healthy lifestyles, according to research published in the Journal of the American Medical Association (news - web sites) in September.
The North American Olive Oil Association included 88 publications to back its claim for the heart-healthy benefits of olive oil. The group wanted to make the claim for monounsaturated fats contained in just one tablespoon of olive oil per day.
Olive oil and certain food containing olive oil can now indicate that "limited and not conclusive scientific evidence suggests that eating about two tablespoons (23 grams) of olive oil daily may reduce the risk of coronary heart disease due to the monounsaturated fat in olive oil," the FDA concluded.
"I think FDA just took a more conservative view," Bauer said.
ià Manufacturers waited for the FDA's precise wording before revising labels. "I expect, over time, most every container of olive oil will have this," he said.
Already, American restaurants and consumers drive $450 million in olive oil sales per year. Supermarket sales in 2003 accounted for 132 million pounds of olive oil, up by nearly one-third over the past six years.
Bauer said he expects the label change to spur a larger uptick in sales.
According to the American Heart Association (news - web sites), coronary heart disease caused 502,189 deaths — or one in five deaths — in 2001, the most current statistic available. Another 13.2 million Americans that year survived the heart attacks, chest pains and other ailments caused by coronary heart disease.
Along with lowering cholesterol, cutting out cigarettes and exercising, the group says Americans can boost heart health by eating foods low in saturated fat, cholesterol and sodium. An American Heart Association spokeswoman declined comment on the FDA's action until it reviews the health claim.
The FDA discounted most of the submitted studies because the methodology made it difficult to tease out the effect of the monounsaturated fats in olive oil. Of a dozen studies that survived the cut, four were the most persuasive.
Thirty-three healthy young American men ate diets high in saturated fats from butter or cocoa butter, olive oil's monounsaturated fats or polyunsaturated fats from soybean oil. The soybean and olive oil groups significantly lowered total and bad LDL cholesterol.
In another trial involving 21 middle-aged Spanish women, those with diets in which olive oil replaced 8 percent of total daily calories from saturated fats lowered their total and bad cholesterol while significantly boosting good HDL cholesterol.
Forty-one young Spanish men lowered total and bad LDL cholesterol with an olive oil diet. Levels of good cholesterol did not drop in the olive oil group, as they did for youthful peers who replaced calories from saturated fats with carbohydrates.
And 22 healthy, middle-aged Spanish men with slightly elevated cholesterol counts were put on a four-week diet high in saturated fat. Those who switched to a diets high in olive oil and those who replaced calories from saturated fats with carbohydrates lowered total and bad LDL cholesterol levels.
It's the third time the FDA granted a qualified health claim for conventional food. In March, the agency said "supportive but not conclusive research" shows eating 1.5 ounces of walnuts per day may reduce coronary heart disease risk. In September, it issued a similar qualified claim for the heart-healthy benefits of omega-3 fatty acids.
On the Net:
FDA: http://www.cfsan.fda.gov/dms/qhcolive.html
Selecting olive oil can be challenging even for olive oil professionals.
With so many labels and so many claims (extra-virgin, organic, light,
first-pressed), it can be nearly impossible to tell which oils really are
what they claim to be. Here are some general rules that might help.
Good olive oil is expensive. Producing high-quality, extra-virgin olive oil
isn't cheap, so your consumer radar should go off if a 500-ml bottle
claiming extra-virgin status is offered for less than $12. Bottles below
that price are almost certain to be chemically extracted, and may not even
be made from olives.
COOC taste panel leader Paul Vossen has tasted oils that claimed to be from
olives, but have turned out to be artificially colored pommace or seed oil.
In an unregulated industry, anything can happen.
Choose oils stored in tinted or aluminum-wrapped glass. Olive oil, like
olives, is perishable, and light speeds up this process.
Choose oils from a harvest no more than one year old. Because of its
perishable nature, olive oil has a greater chance of being rancid when
produced more than a year ago.
Pay attention to where the oil is from and where the label claims the olives
are from. Bottles of oil from a single estate have a higher likelihood of
being made from olives where they say they are from. According to 1997
Senate Bill 920, olive oil with "California" on the label must have been
produced from 100 percent California olives. This rule, however, is
difficult to enforce.
Look for the COOC's certified extra-virgin label, which ensures the olive
oil is free of defects, is truly extra-virgin, and made in California from
California olives.
Don't choose on color. The color of an olive oil has no bearing on its
quality.
When tasting, off-odors reminiscent of Play-Doh, nail polish or rubber
indicate an olive oil has been mistreated or that the olives used in its
production have been compromised. A good olive oil should have positive
flavors reminiscent of olives, tropical fruits and grass. It may also
contain bitterness, a desirable quality, or pungency, the sensation of spice
at the back of the throat. The latter two qualities, however, should be in
balance with respect to the oil's fruit characteristics.
NEW YORK (Reuters Health) - Some of the benefits of a Mediterranean-type diet -- rich in vegetables, fruits, legumes and olive oil and light on red meat -- may stem from the diet's effect on inflammation, new research suggests.
In a study from Greece, markers of inflammation and blood clotting that are related to heart disease were lowest in people who adhered most closely to the traditional Mediterranean diet.
It is too soon to say whether the Mediterranean diet was responsible for the low levels of inflammation and blood-clotting markers, but the findings do provide a plausible explanation of the diet's benefits, according to the study's lead author.
"There is growing scientific evidence that diets high in fruits, vegetables, legumes and whole grains and that include fish, nuts and low-fat dairy products offer protective health benefits," Dr. Demosthenes B. Panagiotakos of Harokopio University in Athens told Reuters Health.
He noted that in the past few decades, a large body of evidence has linked the Mediterranean diet to reductions in heart disease, overall deaths and some kinds of cancer.
The latest results suggest that the Mediterranean diet protects the heart by reducing inflammation, Panagiotakos said.
"Our findings render this dietary pattern extremely attractive for public health purposes and should be adopted by almost everyone," he said.
The results of the study appear in Wednesday's issue of the Journal of the American College of Cardiology.
A Mediterranean-style diet is rich in fruits, vegetables, grains and nuts. It includes few saturated fats like the ones in red meat but plenty of healthier fatty acids like ones found in olive oil.
Inflammation is a prime suspect in a number of health problems, including heart disease, so Panagiotakos and his colleagues set out to measure the effect of a Mediterranean-style diet on inflammation and blood-clotting.
Over the course of a year, the researchers interviewed roughly 3,000 Greek men and women. The researchers also measured several proteins and other markers that are associated with inflammation and blood clotting.
People who stuck most closely to a traditional Mediterranean diet tended to have significantly lower levels of the inflammation and blood-clotting markers, the researchers report.
To make sure that the low levels of these markers were truly related to diet and were not a reflection of better overall health, the researchers accounted for many other factors, including physical activity, smoking, age, gender, socioeconomic status and several health conditions.
Even after taking into account the other factors, the Mediterranean diet was still associated with lower levels of inflammation and blood-clotting markers.
February 2003
1. Closing Label Loopholes for Olive Oil? 2. Choosing Olive Oil? 3. Olive Oil Scam? 4. Olive Oil for Pain Relief?
Ibuprofen-like activity in extra-virgin olive oil
Nature Publishing Group
Nature Publishing Group Article (pdf version)
FDA: Olive Oil May Boost Heart Health
By DIEDTRA HENDERSON, AP Science Writer
Pressing for Greater Olive Oil Oversight
* California producers want U.S. to tighten labeling standards
By Jerry Hirsch, Times Staff Writer
September 17, 2004
When the "virgin" describes the type of olive oil sold in the United States.
In a rare case of a trade group asking the federal government for more regulation, the California Olive Oil Council is pressing the U.S. Department of Agriculture to tighten its grading standards. The council wants to prevent domestic and foreign producers from blending lower-grade olive oil, and even other oils such as canola, into what can be sold domestically as "extra virgin" olive oil.
The problem, said Bruce Golino, president of the trade group, is that the U.S. has no legal definition for extra virgin, which in other parts of the world denotes the highest grade of the product. This has created a loophole that allows producers to give their oils a premium label that doesn't truly reflect what's in the bottle, said Antoinette Addison, who with her husband, Shawn, operates olive orchard and mill Figueroa Farms in Santa Ynez, Calif.
Although some California producers market blended oils as extra virgin, the move to tighten the rules is aimed squarely at importers.
Olive oil grading standards are generally stricter in Europe, where most of the world's olive oil is produced. Rules in the U.S. allow foreign producers to ship lower-quality oil here under premium labels, California growers say. Their hope is that tightening U.S. standards will force importers to increase their quality and that as a result, "they will have to charge more," said Paul Vossen, a Santa Rosa, Calif.-based farm advisor with the University of California. "That will make our industry more competitive."
The North American Olive Oil Assn., the trade group representing the importers, also supports "updating the industry standards," said Bob Bauer, its president. But Bauer said mislabeling oil wasn't as big a problem as the California producers claimed. Although "there may be some smaller players" doing it, he said, the association has a testing program and has not heard of widespread incidents of lower-grade oil being sold as extra virgin.
The USDA will soon solicit comments on proposals to change the standards, which have largely stayed the same since 1948. It could be a year or more before any of the rules are changed.
The California trade group, which requires members to adhere to the European standards, wants the U.S. grades of "fancy," "choice," "standard" and "substandard" to be replaced by the internationally accepted terms of "virgin," "extra virgin" and "refined." Additionally, it wants more precise standards for the amount of acceptable impurities and acid and a requirement that extra virgin oils undergo chemical and taste analysis.
Such changes would bring the U.S. up to par with the rules set by the International Olive Oil Council.
The call for stricter grading comes amid rapid growth for California's industry, which accounts for virtually all of U.S. olive and olive oil production but a small fraction of the world market. The value of California's olive crop is about $40 million, depending on the year.
By comparison, the retail value of olive oil sales in the U.S. will be about $443 million this year, the North American Olive Oil Assn. said. About half of that is labeled "extra virgin."
Over the last decade, the industry has grown from a handful to more than 150 California olive oil brands, which typically are gourmet varieties produced in small quantities and sold for as much as $30 for a 500-milliliter bottle. Vossen estimates that California farmers last year planted 1,000 new acres of trees producing high-oil-content olives, bringing acreage devoted to olive oil production to 6,000, compared with an estimated 35,000 acres for table olives.
Most of the new plantings in recent years have been of oil varieties, said Dan Sciabica, operations manager for olive oil company Nick Sciabica & Sons Inc. in Modesto. Growers are starting to remove trees that produce the canned variety because foreign competition has pushed down prices, he said.
Over the last five years, the state's oil production has nearly tripled to 400,000 gallons. Still, Vossen said, that was just a tiny drop of the 60 million gallons the U.S. consumes annually.
Whether California could ever become an international olive oil power is a matter of debate, even within the industry. Production here is mostly limited to small-scale artisan oils. These are typically sold to tourists at wineries or offered in gourmet shops and upscale grocery stores such as Whole Foods Market, which sells Addison's Camino al Cielo label. "You can make some money, but it won't be a killing," Antoinette Addison said.
In the long run, competition and the high cost of growing and handpicking olives in small orchards is going to make artisan production a difficult business, Vossen said. He said, however, that "we could compete quite well with the European imports if we moved to the big scale."
That would require high-density orchards on relatively flat land where a mechanical harvester could be used to collect the crop, Vossen said. So far there is just one operation that fits the requirements, he said: the 500-acre California Olive Ranch orchard and mill near Oroville.
Such farms should be able to retail extra virgin oil for about $10 a bottle, which is competitive with true extra virgin oil from Europe, Vossen said. Because of the efficiency of California farming, 300,000 acres of high-density olive groves would be able to produce 60 million gallons of high-grade oil, he estimates.
Others believe that olive oil will always be a boutique business in California, even with the rule changes.
By most estimates, there are well under 40,000 acres of olive-bearing groves in California, compared with 6 million in Spain and 4 million in Italy, said Adin Hester, president of the Olive Growers Council of California, which represents the table olive end of the business.
Moreover, the European Union helps underwrite the industry with subsidies. And that doesn't even factor in nations such as Turkey, Tunisia and Morocco "where the costs are so much lower than here," Hester said.
"In the international scheme of things," he said, "we are a nobody."
How to Select and Taste Olive Oil
http://www.oaklandtribune.com/Stories/
July 2004
Health - Reuters
Tue July 6, 2004 6:30 PM ET
Mediterranean Diet May Reduce Inflammation
By Merritt McKinney
SOURCE: Journal of the American College of Cardiology, July 7, 2004.
Olive oil's slippery supply line
Italian extra-virgin not always real thing
Article Published: Sunday, October 26, 2003
By Kimberly Lord Stewart
Special to The Denver Post
Denver Post article
June 25, 2003
Add 1 lb. of veggies, olive oil
By Nanci Hellmich, USA TODAY
Eating a traditional Mediterranean
diet, including a pound of vegetables and several tablespoons of
olive oil a day, may reduce your risk of dying from heart disease,
cancer and other causes, suggests a large new study from
Greece.
This adds to the growing body of evidence on the health benefits of
this diet, which is rich in vegetables, fruits, beans, whole-grain
breads and olive oil. In Greece, the diet contains a moderate amount
of fish and dairy products and is low in meat. Wine is consumed in
moderation and generally during meals.
The Mediterranean diet varies between countries and regions, but it
usually gets about 30% to 40% of total calories from fat, mostly olive oil, a monounsaturated fat.
For the latest study, researchers at the University of Athens and Harvard University tracked more than 22,000 adults, ages 20 to
86, in Greece for almost four years.
They interviewed them about what they ate and drank, portion sizes and how often they
ate. They also questioned them about their activity and smoking habits. They measured their
height, weight and waist circumference.
Then, participants were rated on a scale of 0 to 9, based on how closely they stuck to the
traditional Mediterranean diet. The higher the score, the better the adherence.
Among the findings in Thursday's New England Journal of Medicine:
"It seems it's the total Mediterranean diet that's protective, rather than individual food
groups," says lead author Antonia Trichopoulou, a professor of nutrition at the University of
Athens Medical School.
People in Greece eat about a pound of vegetables a day, mostly cooked because it would be impossible to eat that quantity of raw
vegetables, she says. "We cook a stew of vegetables with eggplant, zucchini, okra, wild greens in olive oil with garlic, onion and
herbs."
Salads are served with fish, and vegetables like zucchini and spinach are boiled and seasoned with lemon and olive oil, she says.
This Mediterranean diet probably has six to nine servings of vegetables a day, says Colleen Doyle, director of nutrition and physical
activity for the American Cancer Society. That's far more than what most Americans eat, which is believed to be between two and
three servings a day, she says.
But would time-pressed Americans who were weaned on fast food and processed fare really want to eat this way?
With this diet, you may have to spend more time in the kitchen, "but you will live longer," says Dimitrios Trichopoulos, a co-author on
the study and a professor of cancer prevention at the Harvard School of Public Health. "It's a matter of choice."
For a lot of people, this diet probably seems like a stretch, but it's something they should be striving for, Doyle says.
"This is another study that shows if we'd focus more on fruits, vegetables and whole grains and eat less red meat and high-fat
dairy products, we'd be a lot healthier," she says.
| is that an extra virgin? | ||
| Buying a good-quality extra virgin olive oil can be as complicated as learning a foreign language. Here’s a short primer to help you make a healthy choice. • acidity level Look for acidity levels of 1 percent or lower. The lower the acidity, the higher the polyphenolsantioxidant compounds. • date Oil only lasts for about 2 years, so look for a date on the bottle. Or ask your retailer because if the bottle isn’t dated, the oil may already be old. • location The producer is required to tell you the region the oil came from, instead of just labeling “Imported from . . . ” or “Bottled in . . . .” • geographic designation A regional label guarantees that the oil was grown, pressed and bottled in a specific region with closely monitored parameters. Look for DOP, DO, HEPO, the Chianti Classico black rooster or the California Olive Oil Council seal. • polyphenols, fats and nutrients Premium extra virgin olive oil has the highest levels of poly-phenols and omega-3 fatty acids and the lowest levels of saturated fats and omega-6 fatty acids. Mass-produced extra virgin and virgin oils are next in line, with pure olive oil and pomace olive oil, used in restaurants and catering, placing last in the nutrient contest. Buying a good-quality extra virgin olive oil can be as complicated as learning a foreign language. Here’s a short primer to help you make a healthy choice. • acidity level Look for acidity levels of 1 percent or lower. The lower the acidity, the higher the polyphenolsantioxidant compounds. • date Oil only lasts for about 2 years, so look for a date on the bottle. Or ask your retailer because if the bottle isn’t dated, the oil may already be old. • location The producer is required to tell you the region the oil came from, instead of just labeling “Imported from . . . ” or “Bottled in . . . .” • geographic designation A regional label guarantees that the oil was grown, pressed and bottled in a specific region with closely monitored parameters. Look for DOP, DO, HEPO, the Chianti Classico black rooster or the California Olive Oil Council seal. • polyphenols, fats and nutrients Premium extra virgin olive oil has the highest levels of poly-phenols and omega-3 fatty acids and the lowest levels of saturated fats and omega-6 fatty acids. Mass-produced extra virgin and virgin oils are next in line, with pure olive oil and pomace olive oil, used in restaurants and catering, placing last in the nutrient contest. |
The volcanic soil turns our shoes sienna red as we walk up the hillside of Antonio Marulli’s olive grove in Francolise, Italy. The trees, heavy with fruit, grid the property and are the only monuments he has to his past. Although bombs destroyed his family home when the Allies advanced during World War II, the trees and the family’s deeply rooted tradition of olive oil making have survived.
Marulli is just one of thousands of olive oil producers in southern Italy, but it’s his attention to quality and detail that sets him apart from others in the Campania region, northwest of Naples. Marulli uses eco-friendly growing methods and drip irrigation to keep soil erosion down. Most farmers in the area grow only a few olive varieties, but Marulli grows seven different species. The variation gives his oil a distinct flavor—fruity with a subtle spiciness that goes well with fish, soups and cooked vegetables. Most olive growers in the area sell their oil to cooperatives or local villagers. “When I first started,” Marulli says, “my neighbors didn’t think something this serious could be done. But now they see many people from France and England coming here to buy my oil,” he says.
During October and November, Marulli and his staff handpick the olives just before they ripen. The fruit looks like immature plums, and each variety has its own harvesting schedule. In the evening, Fiat trucks loaded with small bins deliver the day’s harvest to a friend’s mill—the only one Marulli trusts. Following very strict guidelines, the oil is pressed right away. “Within three to four hours, the olives begin to ferment,” he says. “Even if you have a good mill, there’s nothing you can do if this happens.” The crushed olives release the scent of freshly cut grass and a gloriously colored oil, a cross between the Crayola crayon colors of “Electric Lime” and “Asparagus.”
Once the oil is returned to Marulli’s estate, he puts it through the scrutiny of an expert tasting panel, verifying that the oil meets organoleptic—that is, flavor—standards. Oil officiates, armed with only pencils and their sensitive palates, note the essence and aromas of the oil, along with bitterness and pungency—flavors you want in extra virgin olive oil. They also make sure the oil is free from negative qualities such as vinegar, mold or rancidity. Only after the oil passes these tests can it carry the estate’s label Monte della Torre.
quality counts
The creation of a superior extra virgin olive oil is similar to making wine. But for small-estate oil producers, creating quality oil is much more expensive than fermenting wine. Olive oil experts will tell you that man is the master of wine, but the flavor of extra virgin oil is at the mercy of the soil, the weather, the type of olives—and little else. Others say it’s in the hands of a greater power. “The production of extra virgin olive oil is an act of God,” says Andrea Sommaruga, a former accountant, who ran away from the fast life in Rome and now makes Panzanello organic olive oil in Panzano, Italy. “I believe in olive angels,” he says.
Small producers such as Sommaruga and Marulli need olive angels because, as they venture out into the world market, the competition is fierce. These small-estate oils stand label to label on store shelves with large multinational producers, and the price differences are vast. But if you tend to buy on price alone, think first. “It’s impossible to buy a good-quality extra virgin olive oil in a plastic bottle for $3,” Marulli says.
There are many inconsistencies in the olive oil marketplace, and an extremely low price should make you question the quality, and even the purity, of the oil. Depending on the region in Italy, labor and bottling expenses can cost as much as $8 to $10 per liter. At the store, premium extra virgin olive oils sell for $10 to $50 per liter, but a reasonable outlay is around $20.
Following the Appia Road a few hours south of Marulli’s estate, you can see why spending more for a quality oil is a better choice. Here, farmers wait for overripe olives to fall to the ground. The shriveled black olives are then vacuumed up with machines that look like street cleaners.
At these farms, efficiency takes precedence over quality. The oil is steamed, bleached with peroxide and manufactured into a bland, tasteless, refined olive oil called lampante oil. Later, it’s mixed with an undetermined amount of extra virgin or virgin oil (lower quality than the extra) and labeled as olive oil. And don’t be fooled by so-called light olive oil. Some manufacturers sell this as a specialty oil, but it’s nothing more than highly refined olive oil blended with small amounts of extra virgin oil.
When buying high-quality extra virgin olive oil, the oil’s acidity and freshness can make one brand taste better—and even be healthier—than another. Extra virgin olive oil must have acidity of 1 percent or less; some manufacturers now print the acidity levels on the label. Extra virgin olive oil is perishable, so by the time you buy oil without a birth date, it may well be past its life expectancy. Oil that is significantly older than 2 years past its bottling date will begin to turn rancid and lose its heart-healthy properties. “If the date and acidity levels aren’t listed on the bottle, ask your retailer, who should know,” says Albert Katz, president of the California Olive Oil Council (COOC). Exposure to light and consistent high heat can also turn great oil into a vile, thick mess, so look for oils in dark glass bottles or in boxes, and store them in a cool, dark place.
Not all producers of olive oils put themselves through the expense and trials of specialty labeling. If you want the ultimate guarantee of freshness and quality, look for markings such as a seal from California (COOC) or from HEPO, the Greek foreign trade board. Quality Spanish oils should carry the initialism DO (Denominacion de Origen) just as DOP (Denominazone Di Origine Protetta) denotes Italian oils. These quality assurances can help narrow your choices. Oils produced in the Chianti Classico region of Tuscany have a new label of distinction: a black rooster, also seen on wine labels. Not just hype, these are quality assurance guarantees that the oil has been put through rigorous standards for pressing and taste. The seal on California’s extra virgin olive oils means the growing and pressing methods, along with taste tests, meet the acceptance of the International Olive Oil Council (IOOC) in Madrid, Katz says.
The Italian and Spanish DOP and DO initialisms, respectively, let you know the oil is produced in a specific geographic region, pressed using the best methods and has no flavor defects. “DOP oils are serious oils because they give the consumer a good degree of safety and quality assurance,” says Sebastiano Castiglioni, owner of Querciabella, maker of organic olive oil and wine in Greve, Chianti. In his area, some producers go one step further by meeting specific growing and tasting parameters above what DOP oils require; these oils, monitored by the Chianti Classico Consorzio, feature the black rooster emblem on the bottle neck and embossed in the glass.
healthy habit
Before you decide to add one of these oil superstars to your kitchen pantry, try drinking a spoonful. It should taste fruity on the front of your tongue and feel spicy on the back of your throat. Nancy Radke, cookbook author and Director of the US Information Office for Parmigiano-Reggiano, says, “If green had a flavor, this would be it.” Without this kick, the oil isn’t as fresh and healthy as it could be. “If the oil is too sweet,” Castiglioni says, “there’s something wrong with it.”
Researchers now know that it’s the bite in the back of your throat that means the oil is full of antioxidants and polyphenols that help keep your body healthy. An abundance of studies show that myriad chemical components and fatty acids in extra virgin olive oil not only balance good and bad cholesterol levels but also serve up a powerhouse of antioxidants to help ward off some cancers.
Extra virgin olive oil has a large selection of antioxidants in the form of polyphenols—some so unique that they aren’t found in any other edible fruit or vegetable. “Polyphenols occur a lot in nature,” says Wayne Emmons, PhD, who is Laboratory Director at ITS Caleb Brett in Metairie, Louisiana, “but in olives, there are substances called oleuropein, the bitter component of the olives, which are 10 times higher in extra virgin olive oil than refined olive oil.” After studying oils for more than 40 years, Emmons is convinced that extra virgin olive oil is the “healthiest oil we can consume.”
Fatty acids are another component that makes olive oil a superior health food. Extra virgin olive oil is a monounsaturated fat, high in omega-3 fatty acids (linolenic acid), which are also found in flaxseed and fresh fish. The National School of Nutrition in Perugia, Italy, has been working with olive growers to produce oil that has the highest possible omega-3 fatty acid levels, says Professor Gianfrancesco Montedoro, coordinator of the university’s scientific studies.
taste test
As with wine, you should check the label for the origin of the olive oil. Extra virgin olive oils produced from single regions have flavors unique to their geographical areas. “Consumers need to buy extra virgin olive oil based on territory, not price, to get the flavor they want,” Montedoro says. In general, warmer areas of the Mediterranean produce a medium to lighter oil, good for fish and soups.
Olive oils made in cooler climates, such as Tuscany, have a peppery, greener flavor—good for meats, salads and most vegetables. Admittedly, you may not want to use superior extra virgin olive oils for all your cooking. Top-grade extra virgin olive oils are perfect for finishing sauces, drizzling on salads or vegetables and even slathering on meat, chicken or fish. Mass-produced extra virgin oil and virgin olive oils are second in flavor, but don’t expect to taste the same nuances you’ll find with regionally produced extra virgin olive oil.
Organic extra virgin olive oils are something else to consider. Many producers in northern Italy don’t use chemicals on their olives, but they aren’t certified organic.
Conversely, olives grown in hot climates are prone to olive flies, and growers use pesticides to rid their groves of these destructive pests. So, if you want absolute assurance, look for organic labeling. “There aren’t many of us out there,” says Dale Kambayashi, spokesman for distributor Rapunzel, which recently released an organic Spanish extra virgin oil. “Most organic oils haven’t focused on the culinary aspect, but now you can buy some that have the full extra virgin flavor,” he says.
As the market for olive oil grows in the United States, so will the oil’s quality. But it’s up to the consumer to demand better oil, Katz says. As Marulli pours his iridescent oil onto a plate, he says, “The results don’t come by chance—it takes a lot of hard work and investment, but most of all, a passion to create an oil with a high standard.”
i’m a crook
buyer beware: olive oil industry fraught with fraud
My grandmother, who was born in the mountains above Olympia, Greece, used to say that people from the Mediterranean had olive oil in their veins. In theory, she wasn’t wrong; the Mediterranean diet derives as much as one-third of its calories from olive oil.
My grandmother bought her olive oil straight from the source—her local mill—and she had only two choices: virgin oil for cooking and refined oil for lighting lamps. We Yanks, on the other hand, are relegated to our local grocery store where we must decide between extra virgin, virgin, pure, light and pomace olive oil. In addition, we have to be concerned about the oil’s freshness and whether the marketing messages and health claims featured on the bottle are true. Make the wrong decision, and a good intention becomes a bad choice—not just for your palate and pocketbook, but also for your health.
If you want the healthiest extra virgin olive oil, look beyond labels and logos, and ignore the hype for “cold-pressed” types of oil. Instead, read the fine print, and check the bottling date, acidity level and production region. This assures you that you get what you pay for.
point of origin
The majority of the world’s olive oil flows through Italian ports, making that country the unofficial “police” for most of the oil exported to America. At the docks in Italy, thousands of producers, each with different standards, fight to gain a fraction of the market, which grows in the United States by some 20 percent each year.
Experts say that, as olive oil production has expanded from a cottage industry to a global giant, the rules and regulations haven’t kept pace. For one, there aren’t enough acceptable words to describe the difference between premium extra virgin olive oil and other extra virgin olive oils.
“The mere fact that the oil says ‘extra virgin’ doesn’t mean anything,” says Sebastiano Castiglioni, owner of Querciabella, maker of organic olive oil and wine in Greve, Chianti. He believes that all Italian, high-quality extra virgin oils should have a visible stamp of approval to help the consumer. “DOP (Denominazone Di Origine Protetta) is the only assurance of quality” he says, referring to the Italian label for regional designation and quality assurance.
Truth-in-labeling laws in the olive oil industry are loose at best. For instance, the phrase “cold-pressed” is obsolete, but manufacturers continue to use the term. “Anyone can put anything he or she wants on a label—cold-pressed, handpicked, picked at midnight—and there’s no system to verify the accuracy of these statements,” Nicola Ruggiero, president of Unaprol, an Italian olive oil association, told The Report, a 60-Minutes–type program produced by the Italian television station, RAI.
When most Americans think of olive oil, they picture tanned Tuscan laborers handpicking olives. Until recently, producers took advantage of this misconception and labeled their products as “Made in Italy” or “Produced in Italy.” However, with Spain and Turkey now vying for the title of the world’s primary olive oil supplier, most of these claims are no longer true.
In 1998, the New York law firm Rabin and Peckel, LLP, took on the olive oil labeling misnomer and filed a class action suit in the New York Supreme Court against Unilever, the English-Dutch manufacturer of Bertolli olive oil. The firm argued that Bertolli’s labels, which read “Imported from Italy,” did not meet full disclosure laws because, even though the oil had passed through Italian ports, most of it had originated in Tunisia, Turkey, Spain or Greece. “Bertolli olive oil is imported from Italy, but contains no measurable quantity of Italian oil,” according to court documents.
Marvin Frank, legal counsel for the case, said that consumers have the right to know if they’re buying 100 percent Italian olive oil. The case was settled out of court in 2001, but resulted in changes requiring all imported olive oils, not just Bertolli, to indicate the oils’ country of origin.
impure virgin oil
Regardless of where the olive oil originated, consumers also need to pay attention to its purity. Research shows that blended oils—although not harmful and certainly healthier than seed oils—may meet technical and taste standards, but they don’t contain the full health benefits of pure olive oils. Oils pressed from fully ripe olives, olives grown in poor soil and those grown in hot climates have higher saturated fat levels and lower polyphenol concentrations than oils from unripe olives and cooler climates, according to the National School of Nutrition in Perugia, Italy.
For the past decade, many in the food world have hinted that the olive oil industry is fraught with fraud and deception. But because olive oil production was once a business front for the Italian Mafia, these comments were written off as culinary gossip. In the late 1990s, some of the accusations gained credibility when several companies were caught selling seed oil as olive oil. As a result, the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and laboratory scientists worked to create measures to prevent fraud.
Problem solved? Yes, say some, but others conclude that the industry still has slick merchants trading in tainted products—their misdeeds bordering on the line between unethical and illegal. “The types of fraud have been multiple and numerous,” Domenico Seccia, the public minister in Bari, Italy, told The Report. Technology and maritime document fraud, he says, are the methods of choice for unethical olive oil producers.
In the past, stone presses inefficiently coaxed oil from thick olive paste. Today, high-tech machinery extracts the oil in minutes. This new technology helps unethical producers blend just the right amount of extra virgin olive oil with refined oil to create a product that looks and tastes like pure extra virgin olive oil. Laboratory-created oils even meet the low acidity levels required for extra virgin olive oil. “Mixing non-olive oil with olive oil, pomace (chemically refined) oil with virgin oil and refined oil with virgin oil is all legal as long as it’s indicated on the label,” says Paul Vossen, olive oil expert at the University of California Extension office in Davis, California. “The real problem is that manipulated oils are sometimes sold for more money and labeled as extra virgin or virgin oils when they’re not.”
Mention the humble hazelnut to an olive oil fraud expert, and you’ll get an earful. The chemical structure of hazelnut oil is remarkably similar to extra virgin olive oil, making it the perfect additive for unethical producers. So much so that at levels of 10 percent or less adulteration, even the best scientists are unable to detect hazelnut oil’s presence.
“We really don’t have any good chemical handles yet. It’s difficult to tell,” says Wayne Emmons, Laboratory Director of ITS Caleb Brett in Metairie, Louisiana. “Hazelnut oil and olive oil have high oleic levels,” Emmons says, “which makes it difficult to detect the difference. But if you added just 1 percent canola oil to olive oil, I could tell right away.”
Blended oils of hazelnut and olive oil won’t hurt you, but they also won’t give you the full health benefits of olive oil—or your money’s worth.
With each new anti-fraud test, opportunistic olive oil importers discover new ways to get around the rule. “The official methods of analysis aren’t able to completely detect fraud,” Giovanni Lo Piparo, Italy’s Inspector of Fraud, told The Report. The International Olive Oil Council (IOOC) in Madrid offers a reward to anyone who can detect hazelnut adulteration. The IOOC and the European Union (EU) have also formed a counter-measure group called the MEDEO Project to develop scientific methods that detect smaller levels of hazelnut oil.
When hazelnut adulteration is combined with document fraud, detection problems are doubly difficult. The latest trick is to ship hazelnut-adulterated oils to several different EU countries before reaching Italy.
At each port, false paperwork is verified as authentic, thus reducing the chances that the oil will be searched and tested at its final destination in Italy.
The Middle Eastern press recently cited LIO—Turkey’s largest producer of olive oil and the world’s largest producer of hazelnut oil—and one of its subsidiaries for selling blended hazelnut and olive oil as pure olive oil to Argentina and Brazil.
In December 1999, the company exported 248 tons of blended oil—49 percent refined olive oil and 51 percent hazelnut oil.
The Turkish newspaper Hurriyet reported that the buyer of the oils, Pearman Associates—also owned by the president of LIO—destroyed customs documents in transit and wrote new ones, claiming the oil was refined olive oil. The oil was distributed in Argentina and Brazil and was later recalled when the adulteration scam was discovered.
In August 2002, officials at LIO denied the accusations to the Istanbul Stock Market, according to the Middle Eastern newspaper Sabah. As a result of the scandal, the president of LIO resigned as president of the Turkish Olive Oil Association and Turkey’s Foreign Trade Undersecretary banned the export of mixed oils.
According to the Turkish media, LIO plans to introduce pure olive oil to 1,700 stores in the United States this year.
No one is certain that the fraud found in foreign ports will occur in the United States. But since all but 1 percent of olive oil consumed in America is imported, the possibility exists—and keeps North American port officials busy. In January 2002, for instance, the FDA rejected oil imported from Lebanon, Tunisia and Turkey due to unapproved additives and contamination.
In the past five years, officials in North America have caught some two dozen companies selling blended oils as pure olive oil to consumers and restaurants. The North American Olive Oil Association (NAOOA) in Neptune, New Jersey, monitors its members and periodically pulls oil from store shelves to test it. “Consumers don’t need to worry,” says Bob Bauer, president of the association.
Ultimately, it’s up to consumers to vote with their wallets and to show unethical producers that they won’t pay for falsely advertised products. That’s the case for professional olive oil buyers, as well. One distributor that the NAOOA caught for selling adulterated oil to a restaurant said in his defense, “I’m a crook, but not in a wrongful way. My customers knew from the lower price that I wasn’t selling them 100 percent olive oil.”
kimberly lord stewart
| By Patricia Reaney | REUTERS |
A new study by researchers at the University of Oxford adds to the growing body of evidence that shows olive oil, a staple of the Mediterranean diet, is as good as fresh fruit and vegetables in keeping colon cancer at bay. Dr Michael Goldacre and a team of researchers at the Institute of Health Sciences compared cancer rates, diets and olive oil consumption in 28 countries including Europe, Britain, the United States, Brazil, Colombia, Canada and China.
Countries with a diet high in meat and low in vegetables had the highest rates of the disease and olive oil was associated with a decreased risk. "Olive oil may have a protective effect on the development of colon cancer," Goldacre said in a report in the Journal of Epidemiology and Community Health. Meat, fish and olive oil were the key elements of the diets in terms of the cancer. Meat and fish combined were positively associated with the incidence of cancer but olive oil had a negative effect.
The researchers suspect olive oil protects against bowel cancer by influencing the metabolism of the gut. They think it cuts the amount of a substance called deoxycyclic acid and regulates the enzyme diamine oxidase which may be linked to cell division in the bowel. "The olive oil seems to reduce the amount of bile acid and increase the levels of the enzyme thought to beneficially regulate cell turnover in the gut," Goldacre said in a telephone interview. Meat has the opposite effect because it tends to increase the amount of bile acid. Earlier animal studies have shown the benefits of olive oil over safflower and fish oil on pre-cancerous cells and tumour growth.
Japanese scientists also claim that virgin olive oil applied to the skin after sunbathing could protect against skin cancer by slowing tumour growth. Colon cancer is the second most common cancer in many Western countries. It is much more prevalent in the industrialised world than in developing nations in Asia and Africa. The main treatment is surgery to remove the cancerous area of the bowel and chemotherapy if the disease has spread.