Health News



April 2006
Articles from Dr. Weil
"Top 10 Most Recent Q&A's" on Olive Oil

1. Closing Label Loopholes for Olive Oil?
2. Choosing Olive Oil?
3. Olive Oil Scam?
4. Olive Oil for Pain Relief?


Ibuprofen-like activity in extra-virgin olive oil
Nature Publishing Group
September 2005
Nature Publishing Group Article (pdf version)

FDA: Olive Oil May Boost Heart Health
Nov 2, 2004
By DIEDTRA HENDERSON, AP Science Writer

WASHINGTON - Food containing olive oil can carry labels saying it may reduce the risk of coronary heart disease, the government says, citing limited evidence from a dozen scientific studies about the benefits of monounsaturated fats.

As long as people don't increase the number of calories they consume daily, the Food and Drug Administration (news - web sites) confirmed a reduction in the risk of coronary heart disease when people replace foods high in saturated fat with the monounsaturated fat in olive oil.

That means a change as simple as sauteing food in two tablespoons of olive oil instead of butter may be healthier for your heart.

"Since CHD is the No. 1 killer of both men and women in the United States, it is a public health priority to make sure that consumers have accurate and useful information on reducing their risk," Lester M. Crawford, acting FDA (news - web sites) commissioner, said in a prepared statement. "It's good news for consumers," said Bob Bauer, president of the North American Olive Oil Association, which sought the qualified health claim on Aug. 28, 2003. "Olive oil is a healthy product to help them fight heart disease."

Recent research has underscored the heart benefits from so-called Mediterranean diets high in unsaturated fats from vegetable oil, nuts and such fish as salmon and tuna. Mortality rates dropped by more than 50 percent among elderly Europeans who stuck to such diets and led healthy lifestyles, according to research published in the Journal of the American Medical Association (news - web sites) in September.

The North American Olive Oil Association included 88 publications to back its claim for the heart-healthy benefits of olive oil. The group wanted to make the claim for monounsaturated fats contained in just one tablespoon of olive oil per day.

Olive oil and certain food containing olive oil can now indicate that "limited and not conclusive scientific evidence suggests that eating about two tablespoons (23 grams) of olive oil daily may reduce the risk of coronary heart disease due to the monounsaturated fat in olive oil," the FDA concluded.

"I think FDA just took a more conservative view," Bauer said. ià

Manufacturers waited for the FDA's precise wording before revising labels. "I expect, over time, most every container of olive oil will have this," he said.

Already, American restaurants and consumers drive $450 million in olive oil sales per year. Supermarket sales in 2003 accounted for 132 million pounds of olive oil, up by nearly one-third over the past six years.

Bauer said he expects the label change to spur a larger uptick in sales.

According to the American Heart Association (news - web sites), coronary heart disease caused 502,189 deaths — or one in five deaths — in 2001, the most current statistic available. Another 13.2 million Americans that year survived the heart attacks, chest pains and other ailments caused by coronary heart disease.

Along with lowering cholesterol, cutting out cigarettes and exercising, the group says Americans can boost heart health by eating foods low in saturated fat, cholesterol and sodium. An American Heart Association spokeswoman declined comment on the FDA's action until it reviews the health claim.

The FDA discounted most of the submitted studies because the methodology made it difficult to tease out the effect of the monounsaturated fats in olive oil. Of a dozen studies that survived the cut, four were the most persuasive.

Thirty-three healthy young American men ate diets high in saturated fats from butter or cocoa butter, olive oil's monounsaturated fats or polyunsaturated fats from soybean oil. The soybean and olive oil groups significantly lowered total and bad LDL cholesterol.

In another trial involving 21 middle-aged Spanish women, those with diets in which olive oil replaced 8 percent of total daily calories from saturated fats lowered their total and bad cholesterol while significantly boosting good HDL cholesterol.

Forty-one young Spanish men lowered total and bad LDL cholesterol with an olive oil diet. Levels of good cholesterol did not drop in the olive oil group, as they did for youthful peers who replaced calories from saturated fats with carbohydrates.

And 22 healthy, middle-aged Spanish men with slightly elevated cholesterol counts were put on a four-week diet high in saturated fat. Those who switched to a diets high in olive oil and those who replaced calories from saturated fats with carbohydrates lowered total and bad LDL cholesterol levels.

It's the third time the FDA granted a qualified health claim for conventional food. In March, the agency said "supportive but not conclusive research" shows eating 1.5 ounces of walnuts per day may reduce coronary heart disease risk. In September, it issued a similar qualified claim for the heart-healthy benefits of omega-3 fatty acids.

On the Net: FDA: http://www.cfsan.fda.gov/dms/qhcolive.html


Pressing for Greater Olive Oil Oversight
* California producers want U.S. to tighten labeling standards

By Jerry Hirsch, Times Staff Writer
September 17, 2004


When is a virgin not always a virgin?

When the "virgin" describes the type of olive oil sold in the United States.

In a rare case of a trade group asking the federal government for more regulation, the California Olive Oil Council is pressing the U.S. Department of Agriculture to tighten its grading standards. The council wants to prevent domestic and foreign producers from blending lower-grade olive oil, and even other oils such as canola, into what can be sold domestically as "extra virgin" olive oil.

The problem, said Bruce Golino, president of the trade group, is that the U.S. has no legal definition for extra virgin, which in other parts of the world denotes the highest grade of the product. This has created a loophole that allows producers to give their oils a premium label that doesn't truly reflect what's in the bottle, said Antoinette Addison, who with her husband, Shawn, operates olive orchard and mill Figueroa Farms in Santa Ynez, Calif.

Although some California producers market blended oils as extra virgin, the move to tighten the rules is aimed squarely at importers.

Olive oil grading standards are generally stricter in Europe, where most of the world's olive oil is produced. Rules in the U.S. allow foreign producers to ship lower-quality oil here under premium labels, California growers say. Their hope is that tightening U.S. standards will force importers to increase their quality and that as a result, "they will have to charge more," said Paul Vossen, a Santa Rosa, Calif.-based farm advisor with the University of California. "That will make our industry more competitive."

The North American Olive Oil Assn., the trade group representing the importers, also supports "updating the industry standards," said Bob Bauer, its president. But Bauer said mislabeling oil wasn't as big a problem as the California producers claimed. Although "there may be some smaller players" doing it, he said, the association has a testing program and has not heard of widespread incidents of lower-grade oil being sold as extra virgin.

The USDA will soon solicit comments on proposals to change the standards, which have largely stayed the same since 1948. It could be a year or more before any of the rules are changed.

The California trade group, which requires members to adhere to the European standards, wants the U.S. grades of "fancy," "choice," "standard" and "substandard" to be replaced by the internationally accepted terms of "virgin," "extra virgin" and "refined." Additionally, it wants more precise standards for the amount of acceptable impurities and acid and a requirement that extra virgin oils undergo chemical and taste analysis.

Such changes would bring the U.S. up to par with the rules set by the International Olive Oil Council.

The call for stricter grading comes amid rapid growth for California's industry, which accounts for virtually all of U.S. olive and olive oil production but a small fraction of the world market. The value of California's olive crop is about $40 million, depending on the year.

By comparison, the retail value of olive oil sales in the U.S. will be about $443 million this year, the North American Olive Oil Assn. said. About half of that is labeled "extra virgin."

Over the last decade, the industry has grown from a handful to more than 150 California olive oil brands, which typically are gourmet varieties produced in small quantities and sold for as much as $30 for a 500-milliliter bottle. Vossen estimates that California farmers last year planted 1,000 new acres of trees producing high-oil-content olives, bringing acreage devoted to olive oil production to 6,000, compared with an estimated 35,000 acres for table olives.

Most of the new plantings in recent years have been of oil varieties, said Dan Sciabica, operations manager for olive oil company Nick Sciabica & Sons Inc. in Modesto. Growers are starting to remove trees that produce the canned variety because foreign competition has pushed down prices, he said.

Over the last five years, the state's oil production has nearly tripled to 400,000 gallons. Still, Vossen said, that was just a tiny drop of the 60 million gallons the U.S. consumes annually.

Whether California could ever become an international olive oil power is a matter of debate, even within the industry. Production here is mostly limited to small-scale artisan oils. These are typically sold to tourists at wineries or offered in gourmet shops and upscale grocery stores such as Whole Foods Market, which sells Addison's Camino al Cielo label. "You can make some money, but it won't be a killing," Antoinette Addison said.

In the long run, competition and the high cost of growing and handpicking olives in small orchards is going to make artisan production a difficult business, Vossen said. He said, however, that "we could compete quite well with the European imports if we moved to the big scale."

That would require high-density orchards on relatively flat land where a mechanical harvester could be used to collect the crop, Vossen said. So far there is just one operation that fits the requirements, he said: the 500-acre California Olive Ranch orchard and mill near Oroville.

Such farms should be able to retail extra virgin oil for about $10 a bottle, which is competitive with true extra virgin oil from Europe, Vossen said. Because of the efficiency of California farming, 300,000 acres of high-density olive groves would be able to produce 60 million gallons of high-grade oil, he estimates.

Others believe that olive oil will always be a boutique business in California, even with the rule changes.

By most estimates, there are well under 40,000 acres of olive-bearing groves in California, compared with 6 million in Spain and 4 million in Italy, said Adin Hester, president of the Olive Growers Council of California, which represents the table olive end of the business.

Moreover, the European Union helps underwrite the industry with subsidies. And that doesn't even factor in nations such as Turkey, Tunisia and Morocco "where the costs are so much lower than here," Hester said.

"In the international scheme of things," he said, "we are a nobody."

latimes.com/archives.

How to Select and Taste Olive Oil
http://www.oaklandtribune.com/Stories/
July 2004

Selecting olive oil can be challenging even for olive oil professionals. With so many labels and so many claims (extra-virgin, organic, light, first-pressed), it can be nearly impossible to tell which oils really are what they claim to be. Here are some general rules that might help.

Good olive oil is expensive. Producing high-quality, extra-virgin olive oil isn't cheap, so your consumer radar should go off if a 500-ml bottle claiming extra-virgin status is offered for less than $12. Bottles below that price are almost certain to be chemically extracted, and may not even be made from olives.

COOC taste panel leader Paul Vossen has tasted oils that claimed to be from olives, but have turned out to be artificially colored pommace or seed oil. In an unregulated industry, anything can happen.

Choose oils stored in tinted or aluminum-wrapped glass. Olive oil, like olives, is perishable, and light speeds up this process.

Choose oils from a harvest no more than one year old. Because of its perishable nature, olive oil has a greater chance of being rancid when produced more than a year ago.

Pay attention to where the oil is from and where the label claims the olives are from. Bottles of oil from a single estate have a higher likelihood of being made from olives where they say they are from. According to 1997 Senate Bill 920, olive oil with "California" on the label must have been produced from 100 percent California olives. This rule, however, is difficult to enforce.

Look for the COOC's certified extra-virgin label, which ensures the olive oil is free of defects, is truly extra-virgin, and made in California from California olives.

Don't choose on color. The color of an olive oil has no bearing on its quality.

When tasting, off-odors reminiscent of Play-Doh, nail polish or rubber indicate an olive oil has been mistreated or that the olives used in its production have been compromised. A good olive oil should have positive flavors reminiscent of olives, tropical fruits and grass. It may also contain bitterness, a desirable quality, or pungency, the sensation of spice at the back of the throat. The latter two qualities, however, should be in balance with respect to the oil's fruit characteristics.


Health - Reuters
Tue July 6, 2004 6:30 PM ET

Mediterranean Diet May Reduce Inflammation
By Merritt McKinney

NEW YORK (Reuters Health) - Some of the benefits of a Mediterranean-type diet -- rich in vegetables, fruits, legumes and olive oil and light on red meat -- may stem from the diet's effect on inflammation, new research suggests.

In a study from Greece, markers of inflammation and blood clotting that are related to heart disease were lowest in people who adhered most closely to the traditional Mediterranean diet.

It is too soon to say whether the Mediterranean diet was responsible for the low levels of inflammation and blood-clotting markers, but the findings do provide a plausible explanation of the diet's benefits, according to the study's lead author.

"There is growing scientific evidence that diets high in fruits, vegetables, legumes and whole grains and that include fish, nuts and low-fat dairy products offer protective health benefits," Dr. Demosthenes B. Panagiotakos of Harokopio University in Athens told Reuters Health.

He noted that in the past few decades, a large body of evidence has linked the Mediterranean diet to reductions in heart disease, overall deaths and some kinds of cancer.

The latest results suggest that the Mediterranean diet protects the heart by reducing inflammation, Panagiotakos said. "Our findings render this dietary pattern extremely attractive for public health purposes and should be adopted by almost everyone," he said.

The results of the study appear in Wednesday's issue of the Journal of the American College of Cardiology.

A Mediterranean-style diet is rich in fruits, vegetables, grains and nuts. It includes few saturated fats like the ones in red meat but plenty of healthier fatty acids like ones found in olive oil.

Inflammation is a prime suspect in a number of health problems, including heart disease, so Panagiotakos and his colleagues set out to measure the effect of a Mediterranean-style diet on inflammation and blood-clotting. Over the course of a year, the researchers interviewed roughly 3,000 Greek men and women. The researchers also measured several proteins and other markers that are associated with inflammation and blood clotting. People who stuck most closely to a traditional Mediterranean diet tended to have significantly lower levels of the inflammation and blood-clotting markers, the researchers report.

To make sure that the low levels of these markers were truly related to diet and were not a reflection of better overall health, the researchers accounted for many other factors, including physical activity, smoking, age, gender, socioeconomic status and several health conditions. Even after taking into account the other factors, the Mediterranean diet was still associated with lower levels of inflammation and blood-clotting markers.

SOURCE: Journal of the American College of Cardiology, July 7, 2004.



Olive oil's slippery supply line
Italian extra-virgin not always real thing
Article Published: Sunday, October 26, 2003
By Kimberly Lord Stewart
Special to The Denver Post  
Denver Post article
June 25, 2003
Add 1 lb. of veggies, olive oil
By Nanci Hellmich, USA TODAY

Eating a traditional Mediterranean diet, including a pound of vegetables and several tablespoons of olive oil a day, may reduce your risk of dying from heart disease, cancer and other causes, suggests a large new study from Greece.

This adds to the growing body of evidence on the health benefits of this diet, which is rich in vegetables, fruits, beans, whole-grain breads and olive oil. In Greece, the diet contains a moderate amount of fish and dairy products and is low in meat. Wine is consumed in moderation and generally during meals.

The Mediterranean diet varies between countries and regions, but it usually gets about 30% to 40% of total calories from fat, mostly olive oil, a monounsaturated fat.

For the latest study, researchers at the University of Athens and Harvard University tracked more than 22,000 adults, ages 20 to 86, in Greece for almost four years.

They interviewed them about what they ate and drank, portion sizes and how often they ate. They also questioned them about their activity and smoking habits. They measured their height, weight and waist circumference.

Then, participants were rated on a scale of 0 to 9, based on how closely they stuck to the traditional Mediterranean diet. The higher the score, the better the adherence.

Among the findings in Thursday's New England Journal of Medicine:
  • A two-point increase in the adherence score was associated with a 25% reduced risk of death from all causes, a 33% reduced risk of death from heart disease and a 24% reduced risk of death from cancer.
  • Individual foods alone did not have the same effect on the risk of death.
"It seems it's the total Mediterranean diet that's protective, rather than individual food groups," says lead author Antonia Trichopoulou, a professor of nutrition at the University of Athens Medical School.

People in Greece eat about a pound of vegetables a day, mostly cooked because it would be impossible to eat that quantity of raw vegetables, she says. "We cook a stew of vegetables with eggplant, zucchini, okra, wild greens in olive oil with garlic, onion and herbs." Salads are served with fish, and vegetables like zucchini and spinach are boiled and seasoned with lemon and olive oil, she says.

This Mediterranean diet probably has six to nine servings of vegetables a day, says Colleen Doyle, director of nutrition and physical activity for the American Cancer Society. That's far more than what most Americans eat, which is believed to be between two and three servings a day, she says.

But would time-pressed Americans who were weaned on fast food and processed fare really want to eat this way? With this diet, you may have to spend more time in the kitchen, "but you will live longer," says Dimitrios Trichopoulos, a co-author on the study and a professor of cancer prevention at the Harvard School of Public Health. "It's a matter of choice." For a lot of people, this diet probably seems like a stretch, but it's something they should be striving for, Doyle says.

"This is another study that shows if we'd focus more on fruits, vegetables and whole grains and eat less red meat and high-fat dairy products, we'd be a lot healthier," she says.


BETTER NUTRITION MAGAZINE

February 2003


  is that an extra virgin? 
  Buying a good-quality extra virgin olive oil can be as complicated as learning a foreign language. Here’s a short primer to help you make a healthy choice.
acidity level
Look for acidity levels of 1 percent or lower. The lower the acidity, the higher the polyphenolsantioxidant compounds.
date
Oil only lasts for about 2 years, so look for a date on the bottle. Or ask your retailer because if the bottle isn’t dated, the oil may already be old.
location
The producer is required to tell you the region the oil came from, instead of just labeling “Imported from . . . ” or “Bottled in . . . .”
geographic designation
A regional label guarantees that the oil was grown, pressed and bottled in a specific region with closely monitored parameters. Look for DOP, DO, HEPO, the Chianti Classico black rooster or the California Olive Oil Council seal.
• polyphenols, fats and nutrients
Premium extra virgin olive oil has the highest levels of poly-phenols and omega-3 fatty acids and the lowest levels of saturated fats and omega-6 fatty acids. Mass-produced extra virgin and virgin oils are next in line, with pure olive oil and pomace olive oil, used in restaurants and catering, placing last in the nutrient contest.
Buying a good-quality extra virgin olive oil can be as complicated as learning a foreign language. Here’s a short primer to help you make a healthy choice.
acidity level
Look for acidity levels of 1 percent or lower. The lower the acidity, the higher the polyphenolsantioxidant compounds.
date
Oil only lasts for about 2 years, so look for a date on the bottle. Or ask your retailer because if the bottle isn’t dated, the oil may already be old.
location
The producer is required to tell you the region the oil came from, instead of just labeling “Imported from . . . ” or “Bottled in . . . .”
geographic designation
A regional label guarantees that the oil was grown, pressed and bottled in a specific region with closely monitored parameters. Look for DOP, DO, HEPO, the Chianti Classico black rooster or the California Olive Oil Council seal.
• polyphenols, fats and nutrients
Premium extra virgin olive oil has the highest levels of poly-phenols and omega-3 fatty acids and the lowest levels of saturated fats and omega-6 fatty acids. Mass-produced extra virgin and virgin oils are next in line, with pure olive oil and pomace olive oil, used in restaurants and catering, placing last in the nutrient contest.
 

virtuosity

Is the olive oil industry fraught with fraud?

By kimberly lord stewart

The volcanic soil turns our shoes sienna red as we walk up the hillside of Antonio Marulli’s olive grove in Francolise, Italy. The trees, heavy with fruit, grid the property and are the only monuments he has to his past. Although bombs destroyed his family home when the Allies advanced during World War II, the trees and the family’s deeply rooted tradition of olive oil making have survived.

Marulli is just one of thousands of olive oil producers in southern Italy, but it’s his attention to quality and detail that sets him apart from others in the Campania region, northwest of Naples. Marulli uses eco-friendly growing methods and drip irrigation to keep soil erosion down. Most farmers in the area grow only a few olive varieties, but Marulli grows seven different species. The variation gives his oil a distinct flavor—fruity with a subtle spiciness that goes well with fish, soups and cooked vegetables. Most olive growers in the area sell their oil to cooperatives or local villagers. “When I first started,” Marulli says, “my neighbors didn’t think something this serious could be done. But now they see many people from France and England coming here to buy my oil,” he says.

During October and November, Marulli and his staff handpick the olives just before they ripen. The fruit looks like immature plums, and each variety has its own harvesting schedule. In the evening, Fiat trucks loaded with small bins deliver the day’s harvest to a friend’s mill—the only one Marulli trusts. Following very strict guidelines, the oil is pressed right away. “Within three to four hours, the olives begin to ferment,” he says. “Even if you have a good mill, there’s nothing you can do if this happens.” The crushed olives release the scent of freshly cut grass and a gloriously colored oil, a cross between the Crayola crayon colors of “Electric Lime” and “Asparagus.”

Once the oil is returned to Marulli’s estate, he puts it through the scrutiny of an expert tasting panel, verifying that the oil meets organoleptic—that is, flavor—standards. Oil officiates, armed with only pencils and their sensitive palates, note the essence and aromas of the oil, along with bitterness and pungency—flavors you want in extra virgin olive oil. They also make sure the oil is free from negative qualities such as vinegar, mold or rancidity. Only after the oil passes these tests can it carry the estate’s label Monte della Torre.

quality counts
The creation of a superior extra virgin olive oil is similar to making wine. But for small-estate oil producers, creating quality oil is much more expensive than fermenting wine. Olive oil experts will tell you that man is the master of wine, but the flavor of extra virgin oil is at the mercy of the soil, the weather, the type of olives—and little else. Others say it’s in the hands of a greater power. “The production of extra virgin olive oil is an act of God,” says Andrea Sommaruga, a former accountant, who ran away from the fast life in Rome and now makes Panzanello organic olive oil in Panzano, Italy. “I believe in olive angels,” he says.

Small producers such as Sommaruga and Marulli need olive angels because, as they venture out into the world market, the competition is fierce. These small-estate oils stand label to label on store shelves with large multinational producers, and the price differences are vast. But if you tend to buy on price alone, think first. “It’s impossible to buy a good-quality extra virgin olive oil in a plastic bottle for $3,” Marulli says.

There are many inconsistencies in the olive oil marketplace, and an extremely low price should make you question the quality, and even the purity, of the oil. Depending on the region in Italy, labor and bottling expenses can cost as much as $8 to $10 per liter. At the store, premium extra virgin olive oils sell for $10 to $50 per liter, but a reasonable outlay is around $20.

Following the Appia Road a few hours south of Marulli’s estate, you can see why spending more for a quality oil is a better choice. Here, farmers wait for overripe olives to fall to the ground. The shriveled black olives are then vacuumed up with machines that look like street cleaners.

At these farms, efficiency takes precedence over quality. The oil is steamed, bleached with peroxide and manufactured into a bland, tasteless, refined olive oil called lampante oil. Later, it’s mixed with an undetermined amount of extra virgin or virgin oil (lower quality than the extra) and labeled as olive oil. And don’t be fooled by so-called light olive oil. Some manufacturers sell this as a specialty oil, but it’s nothing more than highly refined olive oil blended with small amounts of extra virgin oil.

When buying high-quality extra virgin olive oil, the oil’s acidity and freshness can make one brand taste better—and even be healthier—than another. Extra virgin olive oil must have acidity of 1 percent or less; some manufacturers now print the acidity levels on the label. Extra virgin olive oil is perishable, so by the time you buy oil without a birth date, it may well be past its life expectancy. Oil that is significantly older than 2 years past its bottling date will begin to turn rancid and lose its heart-healthy properties. “If the date and acidity levels aren’t listed on the bottle, ask your retailer, who should know,” says Albert Katz, president of the California Olive Oil Council (COOC). Exposure to light and consistent high heat can also turn great oil into a vile, thick mess, so look for oils in dark glass bottles or in boxes, and store them in a cool, dark place.

Not all producers of olive oils put themselves through the expense and trials of specialty labeling. If you want the ultimate guarantee of freshness and quality, look for markings such as a seal from California (COOC) or from HEPO, the Greek foreign trade board. Quality Spanish oils should carry the initialism DO (Denominacion de Origen) just as DOP (Denominazone Di Origine Protetta) denotes Italian oils. These quality assurances can help narrow your choices. Oils produced in the Chianti Classico region of Tuscany have a new label of distinction: a black rooster, also seen on wine labels. Not just hype, these are quality assurance guarantees that the oil has been put through rigorous standards for pressing and taste. The seal on California’s extra virgin olive oils means the growing and pressing methods, along with taste tests, meet the acceptance of the International Olive Oil Council (IOOC) in Madrid, Katz says.

The Italian and Spanish DOP and DO initialisms, respectively, let you know the oil is produced in a specific geographic region, pressed using the best methods and has no flavor defects. “DOP oils are serious oils because they give the consumer a good degree of safety and quality assurance,” says Sebastiano Castiglioni, owner of Querciabella, maker of organic olive oil and wine in Greve, Chianti. In his area, some producers go one step further by meeting specific growing and tasting parameters above what DOP oils require; these oils, monitored by the Chianti Classico Consorzio, feature the black rooster emblem on the bottle neck and embossed in the glass.

healthy habit
Before you decide to add one of these oil superstars to your kitchen pantry, try drinking a spoonful. It should taste fruity on the front of your tongue and feel spicy on the back of your throat. Nancy Radke, cookbook author and Director of the US Information Office for Parmigiano-Reggiano, says, “If green had a flavor, this would be it.” Without this kick, the oil isn’t as fresh and healthy as it could be. “If the oil is too sweet,” Castiglioni says, “there’s something wrong with it.”

Researchers now know that it’s the bite in the back of your throat that means the oil is full of antioxidants and polyphenols that help keep your body healthy. An abundance of studies show that myriad chemical components and fatty acids in extra virgin olive oil not only balance good and bad cholesterol levels but also serve up a powerhouse of antioxidants to help ward off some cancers.

Extra virgin olive oil has a large selection of antioxidants in the form of polyphenols—some so unique that they aren’t found in any other edible fruit or vegetable. “Polyphenols occur a lot in nature,” says Wayne Emmons, PhD, who is Laboratory Director at ITS Caleb Brett in Metairie, Louisiana, “but in olives, there are substances called oleuropein, the bitter component of the olives, which are 10 times higher in extra virgin olive oil than refined olive oil.” After studying oils for more than 40 years, Emmons is convinced that extra virgin olive oil is the “healthiest oil we can consume.”

Fatty acids are another component that makes olive oil a superior health food. Extra virgin olive oil is a monounsaturated fat, high in omega-3 fatty acids (linolenic acid), which are also found in flaxseed and fresh fish. The National School of Nutrition in Perugia, Italy, has been working with olive growers to produce oil that has the highest possible omega-3 fatty acid levels, says Professor Gianfrancesco Montedoro, coordinator of the university’s scientific studies.

taste test
As with wine, you should check the label for the origin of the olive oil. Extra virgin olive oils produced from single regions have flavors unique to their geographical areas. “Consumers need to buy extra virgin olive oil based on territory, not price, to get the flavor they want,” Montedoro says. In general, warmer areas of the Mediterranean produce a medium to lighter oil, good for fish and soups.

Olive oils made in cooler climates, such as Tuscany, have a peppery, greener flavor—good for meats, salads and most vegetables. Admittedly, you may not want to use superior extra virgin olive oils for all your cooking. Top-grade extra virgin olive oils are perfect for finishing sauces, drizzling on salads or vegetables and even slathering on meat, chicken or fish. Mass-produced extra virgin oil and virgin olive oils are second in flavor, but don’t expect to taste the same nuances you’ll find with regionally produced extra virgin olive oil.

Organic extra virgin olive oils are something else to consider. Many producers in northern Italy don’t use chemicals on their olives, but they aren’t certified organic.

Conversely, olives grown in hot climates are prone to olive flies, and growers use pesticides to rid their groves of these destructive pests. So, if you want absolute assurance, look for organic labeling. “There aren’t many of us out there,” says Dale Kambayashi, spokesman for distributor Rapunzel, which recently released an organic Spanish extra virgin oil. “Most organic oils haven’t focused on the culinary aspect, but now you can buy some that have the full extra virgin flavor,” he says.

As the market for olive oil grows in the United States, so will the oil’s quality. But it’s up to the consumer to demand better oil, Katz says. As Marulli pours his iridescent oil onto a plate, he says, “The results don’t come by chance—it takes a lot of hard work and investment, but most of all, a passion to create an oil with a high standard.”

i’m a crook

buyer beware: olive oil industry fraught with fraud

My grandmother, who was born in the mountains above Olympia, Greece, used to say that people from the Mediterranean had olive oil in their veins. In theory, she wasn’t wrong; the Mediterranean diet derives as much as one-third of its calories from olive oil.

My grandmother bought her olive oil straight from the source—her local mill—and she had only two choices: virgin oil for cooking and refined oil for lighting lamps. We Yanks, on the other hand, are relegated to our local grocery store where we must decide between extra virgin, virgin, pure, light and pomace olive oil. In addition, we have to be concerned about the oil’s freshness and whether the marketing messages and health claims featured on the bottle are true. Make the wrong decision, and a good intention becomes a bad choice—not just for your palate and pocketbook, but also for your health.

If you want the healthiest extra virgin olive oil, look beyond labels and logos, and ignore the hype for “cold-pressed” types of oil. Instead, read the fine print, and check the bottling date, acidity level and production region. This assures you that you get what you pay for.

point of origin
The majority of the world’s olive oil flows through Italian ports, making that country the unofficial “police” for most of the oil exported to America. At the docks in Italy, thousands of producers, each with different standards, fight to gain a fraction of the market, which grows in the United States by some 20 percent each year.

Experts say that, as olive oil production has expanded from a cottage industry to a global giant, the rules and regulations haven’t kept pace. For one, there aren’t enough acceptable words to describe the difference between premium extra virgin olive oil and other extra virgin olive oils.

“The mere fact that the oil says ‘extra virgin’ doesn’t mean anything,” says Sebastiano Castiglioni, owner of Querciabella, maker of organic olive oil and wine in Greve, Chianti. He believes that all Italian, high-quality extra virgin oils should have a visible stamp of approval to help the consumer. “DOP (Denominazone Di Origine Protetta) is the only assurance of quality” he says, referring to the Italian label for regional designation and quality assurance.

Truth-in-labeling laws in the olive oil industry are loose at best. For instance, the phrase “cold-pressed” is obsolete, but manufacturers continue to use the term. “Anyone can put anything he or she wants on a label—cold-pressed, handpicked, picked at midnight—and there’s no system to verify the accuracy of these statements,” Nicola Ruggiero, president of Unaprol, an Italian olive oil association, told The Report, a 60-Minutes–type program produced by the Italian television station, RAI.

When most Americans think of olive oil, they picture tanned Tuscan laborers handpicking olives. Until recently, producers took advantage of this misconception and labeled their products as “Made in Italy” or “Produced in Italy.” However, with Spain and Turkey now vying for the title of the world’s primary olive oil supplier, most of these claims are no longer true.

In 1998, the New York law firm Rabin and Peckel, LLP, took on the olive oil labeling misnomer and filed a class action suit in the New York Supreme Court against Unilever, the English-Dutch manufacturer of Bertolli olive oil. The firm argued that Bertolli’s labels, which read “Imported from Italy,” did not meet full disclosure laws because, even though the oil had passed through Italian ports, most of it had originated in Tunisia, Turkey, Spain or Greece. “Bertolli olive oil is imported from Italy, but contains no measurable quantity of Italian oil,” according to court documents.

Marvin Frank, legal counsel for the case, said that consumers have the right to know if they’re buying 100 percent Italian olive oil. The case was settled out of court in 2001, but resulted in changes requiring all imported olive oils, not just Bertolli, to indicate the oils’ country of origin.

impure virgin oil
Regardless of where the olive oil originated, consumers also need to pay attention to its purity. Research shows that blended oils—although not harmful and certainly healthier than seed oils—may meet technical and taste standards, but they don’t contain the full health benefits of pure olive oils. Oils pressed from fully ripe olives, olives grown in poor soil and those grown in hot climates have higher saturated fat levels and lower polyphenol concentrations than oils from unripe olives and cooler climates, according to the National School of Nutrition in Perugia, Italy.

For the past decade, many in the food world have hinted that the olive oil industry is fraught with fraud and deception. But because olive oil production was once a business front for the Italian Mafia, these comments were written off as culinary gossip. In the late 1990s, some of the accusations gained credibility when several companies were caught selling seed oil as olive oil. As a result, the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and laboratory scientists worked to create measures to prevent fraud.

Problem solved? Yes, say some, but others conclude that the industry still has slick merchants trading in tainted products—their misdeeds bordering on the line between unethical and illegal. “The types of fraud have been multiple and numerous,” Domenico Seccia, the public minister in Bari, Italy, told The Report. Technology and maritime document fraud, he says, are the methods of choice for unethical olive oil producers.

In the past, stone presses inefficiently coaxed oil from thick olive paste. Today, high-tech machinery extracts the oil in minutes. This new technology helps unethical producers blend just the right amount of extra virgin olive oil with refined oil to create a product that looks and tastes like pure extra virgin olive oil. Laboratory-created oils even meet the low acidity levels required for extra virgin olive oil. “Mixing non-olive oil with olive oil, pomace (chemically refined) oil with virgin oil and refined oil with virgin oil is all legal as long as it’s indicated on the label,” says Paul Vossen, olive oil expert at the University of California Extension office in Davis, California. “The real problem is that manipulated oils are sometimes sold for more money and labeled as extra virgin or virgin oils when they’re not.”

Mention the humble hazelnut to an olive oil fraud expert, and you’ll get an earful. The chemical structure of hazelnut oil is remarkably similar to extra virgin olive oil, making it the perfect additive for unethical producers. So much so that at levels of 10 percent or less adulteration, even the best scientists are unable to detect hazelnut oil’s presence.

“We really don’t have any good chemical handles yet. It’s difficult to tell,” says Wayne Emmons, Laboratory Director of ITS Caleb Brett in Metairie, Louisiana. “Hazelnut oil and olive oil have high oleic levels,” Emmons says, “which makes it difficult to detect the difference. But if you added just 1 percent canola oil to olive oil, I could tell right away.”

Blended oils of hazelnut and olive oil won’t hurt you, but they also won’t give you the full health benefits of olive oil—or your money’s worth.

With each new anti-fraud test, opportunistic olive oil importers discover new ways to get around the rule. “The official methods of analysis aren’t able to completely detect fraud,” Giovanni Lo Piparo, Italy’s Inspector of Fraud, told The Report. The International Olive Oil Council (IOOC) in Madrid offers a reward to anyone who can detect hazelnut adulteration. The IOOC and the European Union (EU) have also formed a counter-measure group called the MEDEO Project to develop scientific methods that detect smaller levels of hazelnut oil.

When hazelnut adulteration is combined with document fraud, detection problems are doubly difficult. The latest trick is to ship hazelnut-adulterated oils to several different EU countries before reaching Italy.

At each port, false paperwork is verified as authentic, thus reducing the chances that the oil will be searched and tested at its final destination in Italy.

The Middle Eastern press recently cited LIO—Turkey’s largest producer of olive oil and the world’s largest producer of hazelnut oil—and one of its subsidiaries for selling blended hazelnut and olive oil as pure olive oil to Argentina and Brazil.

In December 1999, the company exported 248 tons of blended oil—49 percent refined olive oil and 51 percent hazelnut oil.

The Turkish newspaper Hurriyet reported that the buyer of the oils, Pearman Associates—also owned by the president of LIO—destroyed customs documents in transit and wrote new ones, claiming the oil was refined olive oil. The oil was distributed in Argentina and Brazil and was later recalled when the adulteration scam was discovered.

In August 2002, officials at LIO denied the accusations to the Istanbul Stock Market, according to the Middle Eastern newspaper Sabah. As a result of the scandal, the president of LIO resigned as president of the Turkish Olive Oil Association and Turkey’s Foreign Trade Undersecretary banned the export of mixed oils.

According to the Turkish media, LIO plans to introduce pure olive oil to 1,700 stores in the United States this year.

No one is certain that the fraud found in foreign ports will occur in the United States. But since all but 1 percent of olive oil consumed in America is imported, the possibility exists—and keeps North American port officials busy. In January 2002, for instance, the FDA rejected oil imported from Lebanon, Tunisia and Turkey due to unapproved additives and contamination.

In the past five years, officials in North America have caught some two dozen companies selling blended oils as pure olive oil to consumers and restaurants. The North American Olive Oil Association (NAOOA) in Neptune, New Jersey, monitors its members and periodically pulls oil from store shelves to test it. “Consumers don’t need to worry,” says Bob Bauer, president of the association.

Ultimately, it’s up to consumers to vote with their wallets and to show unethical producers that they won’t pay for falsely advertised products. That’s the case for professional olive oil buyers, as well. One distributor that the NAOOA caught for selling adulterated oil to a restaurant said in his defense, “I’m a crook, but not in a wrongful way. My customers knew from the lower price that I wasn’t selling them 100 percent olive oil.”

kimberly lord stewart


Copyright © 2000-2003 Better Nutrition Magazine and RCL, Inc. All rights reserved.



Rebuilding The Food Pyramid
by Lisa Ellis

Medical Content of this article was reviewed by the Harvard Medical Board
The USDA's Food Guide Pyramid is "built on shaky scientific ground" and distorted by the department's mission to promote agriculture.

Potatoes, white bread and most pastas are bad, some fats are good, calcium isn't as important as you think, and the U.S. government's supposedly authoritative food pyramid is just plain wrong.
So says "Eat, Drink, and Be Healthy" (Simon & Schuster, August 2001), Harvard Medical School's entry into the bewildering debate over diet and nutrition. The book contends that the U.S. Department of Agriculture's widely reproduced Food Guide Pyramid - whose largest component is grain products such as bread and pasta - is "built on shaky scientific ground" and distorted by the department's mission to promote agriculture, especially dairy and grain farming.

USDA food pyramid

Instead, Harvard offers the Healthy Eating Pyramid, a guide that author Walter Willett, M.D., Dr. P.H., says should help people navigate through the confusing tangle of diet advice because it is based on decades of accumulated research, not just one or two studies.
In summary, it recommends sharply restricting red meat, potatoes and refined grain products such as white bread; limiting dairy products to one or two servings a day; replacing unhealthy saturated fat with healthier unsaturated vegetable oils; and emphasizing whole grains, fruits and vegetables.

Harvard Medical School's new food pyramid

"This book represents an effort to pull together the best available evidence on how diet influences health. Unfortunately, that hasn't been done very often," says Dr. Willett, a professor of medicine at Harvard Medical School and chairman of nutrition at the Harvard School of Public Health. He also is one of the principal investigators of the Harvard-based Nurses' Health Study, one of the largest long-term health studies in the United States. The USDA pyramid, first published in 1992, ignored the evidence at that time, and subsequent studies have made it even more outdated, Dr. Willett says.

(A USDA spokesperson, Jackie Haven, declines comment, saying: "The department has a longstanding policy of not commenting on diet books.")

"There's an inherent problem with the USDA creating the pyramid," Dr. Willett says. "The economic interests are so strong - and beef and dairy are the most powerful - that I think it's impossible for the USDA to say that people should limit red meat consumption or limit dairy products to one or two servings a day. It's very difficult for them to be objective, so it's probably the worst possible agency to do the pyramid."

Citing both positive and negative research findings about most categories of food and nutrients, the Healthy Eating Pyramid reshuffles the ingredients into a new structure to guide daily eating. Several of the recommendations directly challenge those of the USDA pyramid.

The Healthy Eating Pyramid puts red meat, butter, potatoes, sweets, white bread, white rice, ordinary pasta and other refined grain products into a tiny compartment at the top, labelled "Use Sparingly."

The broad foundation of the new pyramid - the foods intended to provide the largest portion of daily calories - consists of whole-grain foods, such as brown rice and whole-wheat bread, and vegetable oils such as olive and canola. In the USDA pyramid, all grain products are in one category, and people are urged to eat six to 11 servings a day, the most of any food group. The USDA recommends only limited use of all oils, fats and sweets.
Both pyramids put fruits and vegetables in the middle. The new guide divides protein into categories, emphasizing nuts and legumes, followed by fish, poultry and eggs. It says that adults need only one to two servings of calcium-rich foods - not necessarily dairy products - or calcium supplement each day.

The Healthy Eating Pyramid, which is geared toward adults, also recommends a daily multivitamin "for insurance" and allows alcohol "in moderation" for people who have no history of addiction, depression or certain other medical problems.

Underpinning the entire new pyramid is a lifestyle that includes regular exercise, weight control and awareness of where your calories are coming from.

"You need to pay attention to all forms of calories, fat calories and carbohydrate calories," Dr. Willett says, because all calories can make you gain weight.

"If there are unhealthy fats, think about ways to substitute healthy for unhealthy fats." People who are already on low-fat diets might be better off replacing some carbohydrates such as white bread or pasta with healthy fats such as olive oil, he says.

Dr. Willett acknowledges that nutrition research can be confusing when the public hears about it one study at a time. This is because the research unfolds in a rhythm that is "more a cha-cha - two steps forward and one step back - than a straight-ahead march," he writes. "...Like dropping stones into an old-fashioned scale, the weight of evidence gradually tips the balance in favour of one idea over another. It is only when this happens that you should make changes in your life."

The book, which includes recipes and menus, offers a chapter on how to interpret nutrition research, and it identifies some questions about the health effects of certain foods as still unsettled.

But it states that the evidence is settled enough on these points: Refined grains such as white bread and rice should be eaten only in small quantities. These grains are broken down quickly into glucose (sugar), which is followed by a release of insulin so the body can use the glucose for fuel, then quick hunger pangs as the glucose level drops. The digestion of potatoes is similar, although they are now the number one vegetables consumed in the United States. "A constant and heavy demand on the pancreas to make insulin appears to be a key ingredient for adult-onset diabetes ... especially when paired with lack of exercise."

Whole grains, especially if they are intact or coarsely ground, averts the glucose roller-coaster effect because they are digested much more slowly. They provide more nutrients than refined grains and may help protect against diabetes, heart disease and several forms of cancer.

"Some fats are good for you, and it is important to include these good fats in your diet." Specifically, eating unsaturated fats - found in most vegetable oils, nuts and fatty fish - instead of saturated fats such as butter and animal fats can reduce low-density lipoproteins ("bad" cholesterol) and help to protect against coronary heart disease, erratic heartbeats and blood clots.

Trans-fatty acids, found in many hard margarines and baked goods containing partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, should be avoided because they increase the risk of heart disease. Research connects excess weight, not overall fat consumption, to some forms of cancer, and people on low-fat, high-carbohydrate diets tend to regain the weight.

It is not clear how much calcium people need. Worldwide, consumption varies, and countries with average higher calcium intake tend to have higher rates of hip fractures. There is little proof that boosting calcium to currently recommended levels will prevent fractures, the principal complication of osteoporosis, the "brittle bones" disease that is found mostly in older women. But exercise, certain medications, Vitamins D and K and sometimes hormone replacement can help to prevent fractures. There is some evidence that high levels of calcium may be associated with prostate and ovarian cancers.

Protein itself does not appear to be related to rates of heart disease, cancer or diabetes, and it is digested slowly so it does not trigger sharp increases in blood sugar. Red meat should be restricted because it tends to include more saturated fat than other protein sources.

Eating many and varied fruits and vegetables can decrease the risk of heart attack or stroke, protect against many forms of cancer, lower blood pressure, and guard against certain intestinal and eye diseases. Variety is important, because these foods include many micronutrients whose value scientists still are discovering. A vitamin pill is recommended only as insurance, not a substitute. A glass of fruit juice can add nutritional value to a diet, but consuming more than a glass per day can contribute to excessive calories.
Dr. Willett, whose family have been Michigan dairy farmers for generations, acknowledges that children need more calcium than adults do, but probably not a lot more. "If the child really likes milk, having two or three glasses a day is OK, but I wouldn't beat them over the head to drink milk," he says. One- or two-percent milk is best for children under age 5, who need the calories, he says.

The recommendations of the book are likely to be controversial in some circles, Dr. Willett says, but he thinks it is time people acknowledge that the weight of evidence justifies changing the conventional wisdom about healthy eating.

"I think within the nutrition community there are a lot of people who would acknowledge there are problems with the [USDA] dietary pyramid but are reluctant to admit it," he says. "There's this sense that we must be consistent no matter what the evidence says, and that gets us into trouble ...

But a tremendous number of people have tried the pyramid for weight reduction and found that it failed."

© Lisa Ellis 2001 Original article here
Medical Content of this article was reviewed by the Harvard Medical Board

July 5, 2002
Reuters-Health
Greek Cuisine, Sex Promote Healthy Life
-- Erik Brynhildsbakken
OSLO (Reuters) - Greek cuisine and plenty of sex help to ensure a long and healthy life, and to keep cancer and heart disease at bay, a cancer expert said on Tuesday.

"It looks like the Greek diet in many ways is the optimum diet," Harvard professor Walter Willett told Reuters at an international cancer congress in Oslo.

A Greek diet--with plenty of fruit and vegetables all year round and olive oil instead of butter and lard--was the best way to keep a range of cancers at bay, while the sturdy diet of northern Europe was like a ticking bomb, Willett said.

"The traditional northern European diet comes pretty close to a worst-case diet, and we have imported that into the United States," Willett said. "That means large amounts of red meat and dairy fat, and low amounts of fruit and vegetables."

But Willett said he was not trying to take the pleasure out of life by promoting a smoke-free lifestyle that was low on red meat and alcohol but included plenty of exercise. "Remember sex--safe sex--is a positive physical exercise," he said...
May 16, 2002
Los Angeles Times
Judges put taste buds to work on wines and olive oils
-- Pam Noles

POMONA -- Inside this quiet place, where men and women with solemn faces sit at small tables draped with white linen, the sound is so unexpected it is almost shocking. Sllluuurrrp .

It was a thick noise, with a little trill in the middle and an abrupt bite at the end. It happened so fast it was hard to tell which of them did it. They do not react at all, continuing their mostly quiet work lifting small blue jars, sniffing, sipping, taking notes. It is the first day of judging for the Los Angeles County Fair Olive Oils of the World Competition, and this is how it's done, with a few top experts, a warming pad, and the occasional burst of rude and funny noises.

Not that anyone in this room inside the Sheraton Hotel at Fairplex is laughing. It is serious and not so easy work for a dozen people to taste and judge 92 different oils over the course of three days, with little more than a bite of an apple to clean the palate between each silky candidate.

The industrial strength slurps are necessary, explains Arden Kremer, who runs Enterprise Vineyards in Sonoma County with her husband. Air must be forced through the oil onto the tongue to release the full flavor inside the mouth for proper evaluation.

"It enhances what we call the retro nasal effect so you can get the flavor inside your nose rather than outside," she said. "You want to be able to repeat the flavor of the oil."

Six months ago the California Olive Oil Council became the first American group qualified to taste oils at an international level, said Roberto Zecca, past council president and chair of the fair's oil competition. It is now one of 40 in the world to earn such a designation, each judge certified to meet strict guidelines set by the International Olive Oil Council in Madrid.

Reaching that goal helped attract more oils than ever, Zecca said, with oils arriving from Greece, Italy, Spain, Portugal, Chile and elsewhere. "Of course now other countries feel confident sending their best to us," he said. "We just needed to tell them we were doing this."

The oils are kept on a warming pad at 80 degrees, the perfect tasting temperature. Each vial has a tiny paper disk on top to prevent flavor from drifting away on vapors, and each tasting vial is blue so that color will not influence the judge on taste.

April 19, 2002
just-food.com
EU: Olive oil reduces oxidation of bad cholesterol
-- just-food.com editorial team
Including 25ml of virgin olive in our daily diet may substantially reduce cholesterol levels after just one week.

New evidence presented in this month's European Journal of Clinical Nutrition suggests that olive oil helps reduce the oxidation of LDL or 'bad' cholesterol, which is linked to hardening of the arteries.

A team led by Dr M. C. Lopez-Sabater of the University of Barcelona studied 16 people who were told to avoid foods such as coffee, tea, wine and vegetables for a four-day period. This is because they contain phenols (antioxidant products which can help attack harmful free radicals) and the researchers wanted to see whether olive oil could increase phenol levels without this additional help.

After this four-day preparation period, the subjects were given 50ml of olive oil and told to continue avoiding the food listed above for 24 hours. After this they resumed their normal diet, but took a daily supplement of 25ml. They also kept away from high-fat foods such as butter, margarine, nuts and eggs.

After just one week, blood samples showed higher levels of antioxidants such as vitamin E and phenols. They also showed higher levels of oleic acid and monounsaturated fatty acids, both indicative of reduced LDL oxidation rate.

Lopez-Sabater said in the article: "In addition to the LDL-lowering effect of virgin olive oil, our results suggest that an intake of 25 ml/day could increase the resistance of LDL to oxidation because it becomes richer in oleic acid and antioxidants. These benefits could be achieved by including virgin olive oil daily in our diet."

April 9, 2001
WebMD Medical News
Now, New Reasons to Go Greek
-- By Peter Jaret

Researchers are finding more evidence that supports the traditional Mediterranean diet.
Think fish, olive oil, fruits, and vegetables.

Glittering beaches, hillsides stitched with gnarled grape vines, lemon trees glistening in the sun...There are plenty of reasons to envy life in the Mediterranean. And if the warm climate and congenial lifestyle aren't enough, here's another: The traditional Mediterranean diet continues to be the healthiest, as well as one of the most delicious, in the world.

For years, of course, nutritionists have been lauding the Mediterranean diet as a way to lower heart disease risk. Now the latest evidence suggests that it may protect people who already have had a heart attack. In the GISSI-Prevenzione Study, presented at the conference of the American Heart Association in December 2000, Italian scientists followed 11,324 Italians who had suffered heart attacks, keeping track of the amounts of Mediterranean-style foods they ate (vegetables, fruit, fish, and olive oil) as well as their intake of butter, a decidedly non-Mediterranean food. Those who slathered on butter were three times more likely to die within the 42-month study period as those who filled their plates with the four traditional Mediterranean foods.

Why? Researchers are still tallying up the virtues that make the Mediterranean diet so beneficial. Dozens of studies have shown that replacing the saturated fat in butter with the monounsaturated form found in olive oil (as well as canola and peanut oil) improves the ratio of good cholesterol (high density lipoprotein, or HDL) to bad cholesterol (low density lipoprotein, or LDL). That, in turn, can help keep blood vessels unclogged with the waxy substance.

A cornucopia of health benefits Other new findings suggest that the Mediterranean diet also may protect against heart disease by preventing LDL cholesterol in the blood stream from becoming oxidized--a process that damages the lining of blood vessels. In a study published in the Sept. 30, 2000, issue of Medicina Clinica, Spanish researchers put 41 healthy male volunteers on three consecutive four-week diets. The first month their menu was high in saturated fat. The second month they ate a diet low in both saturated and total fat. The third month their diet followed the Mediterranean model -- high in monounsaturated fat. Analyzing blood samples, the scientists found that the Mediterranean diet significantly reduced the oxidation of LDL particles.

Over time, that reduction could go a long way toward protecting blood vessels from the kind of damage that leads to heart disease. There's more to commend the Mediterranean diet. Two essential ingredients -- olive oil and onions -- have been shown to lower blood pressure, which would further decrease heart disease danger.

In a study published in February 2001 in the German journal Arzneitmittelforschung, researchers compared the effect of capsules containing macerated onion and olive oil with placebo pills. In the 24 volunteers, all of whom suffered from high blood pressure, the blood pressure significantly declined after a week on the onion-olive oil pills.

Eating like a Cretan For researchers studying the Mediterranean diet--and for those of us who would like to follow its healthy principles--there's only one problem amid all this good news: There is no single Mediterranean menu. The cuisines in this region of the world include everything from North African couscous and Greek spanikopita to pasta con tono served up in an Italian osteria. The menu isn't the only thing that varies. Heart disease risk is also very different in different parts of the Mediterranean. In the famous Seven Countries study, the risk of dying of heart disease was more than twice as high among Italians as it was among the people of Crete. The inhabitants of that tiny Greek island, in fact, had the lowest risk of heart disease--and lowest death rates--found almost anywhere in the world. If you want to choose the healthiest diet, in other words, eat like a Cretan.

Fortunately, a new study by Greek scientists, published in the December 2000 Journal of the American Dietetic Association, makes that easier. The researchers have reconstructed a seven-day meal plan showing what the typical Cretan would have consumed in the 1960s, when the Seven Countries study was done. They've also compared it to what the typical teenagers of Crete are eating today. The differences are telling. For a midmorning snack, the traditional inhabitants helped themselves to pears or melons. Today's youngsters are guzzling chocolate milk, cookies, and carbonated drinks. For dinner, the residents of old Crete ate rice with spinach, yogurt, whole-wheat bread, stuffed tomatoes, lentils, and salad. Members of the new generation, adopting Western habits, are helping themselves to pizza, cola, hamburgers, and French fries.

It's no surprise that obesity is becoming a growing problem in Greece, researchers say--or that many epidemiologists expect to see an increase in heart disease risk. That's discouraging, of course. But there's also good news. The basic principles of the traditional Mediterranean diet turn out to be simple and adaptable to almost any cuisine.

Here are six simple ways to follow the heart-healthy example of those lucky inhabitants of sun-drenched Crete:
  • Eat at least one piece of fruit for breakfast or your midmorning snack..
  • Choose lunches and dinners that are loaded with vegetables, especially beans, lentils, and leafy greens like spinach, arugula, and kale.
  • Snack on fresh fruit, dried fruit, or nuts.
  • Go very easy on meat (it shows up only as a very special treat on the traditional Cretan menu). Help yourself to fish.
  • Replace butter with olive oil or canola oil.
Not sure how to put it all together? There are dozens of terrific Mediterranean cookbooks that can help you turn those principles into some of the most delicious dishes the world has to offer. Not many of us are lucky enough to live like Mediterraneans. But at least we can learn to eat like them. Peter Jaret is a freelance writer in Petaluma, Calif., who has written for Health, Hippocrates, and many other national publications.

January 25, 2001
Reuters
Olive Oil, Cancer Killer
L O N D O N, Jan. 25th, Spanish scientists added further weight to the growing body of evidence about the benefits of olive oil today with new research showing it may help to prevent colon cancer.

Researchers at University Hospital Germans Trias Pujol in Barcelona compared the benefits of olive oil, a staple of the Mediterranean diet, with safflower and fish oil on rats to determine if the type, and not just the amount, of fat in the diet had an impact on tumor growth.

Prevents Cancer in Rats "This study provides evidence that a five percent fat diet containing olive oil as compared with a five percent safflower oil diet prevents colonic carcinogenesis in rats, as occurs with five percent fish oil diets," Professor Miguel Gassul and his colleagues reported in the journal Gut.

The researchers divided 100 rats into three groups and fed them a diet rich in olive, safflower or fish oil. Each group was divided into two and half of the animals received a cancer-causing agent. Nineteen weeks after the start of the experiment, the researchers examined the animals for early signs of cancer. They found that the rats on the olive oil diet had less precancerous tissue and fewer tumors than the animals fed the other oils.

Gassull and his team said both the olive and fish oil diets reduced the amount of a chemical called arachidonate, which when combined with a substance called prostaglandin E can promote cancer. The researchers believe constituents of olive oil such as flavonoids, squalene and polyphenols may help to protect against cancer. Flavonoids and polyphenols are antioxidants which help prevent cell damage from oxygen-containing chemicals called free radicals. The scientists called for further studies to substantiate their findings.
September 19, 2000 ....
Report: Olive Oil May Prevent Colon Cancer
By Patricia Reaney   REUTERS
LONDON — British doctors added olive oil on Tuesday to the list of foods that may help to prevent colon cancer.

A new study by researchers at the University of Oxford adds to the growing body of evidence that shows olive oil, a staple of the Mediterranean diet, is as good as fresh fruit and vegetables in keeping colon cancer at bay. Dr Michael Goldacre and a team of researchers at the Institute of Health Sciences compared cancer rates, diets and olive oil consumption in 28 countries including Europe, Britain, the United States, Brazil, Colombia, Canada and China.

Countries with a diet high in meat and low in vegetables had the highest rates of the disease and olive oil was associated with a decreased risk. "Olive oil may have a protective effect on the development of colon cancer," Goldacre said in a report in the Journal of Epidemiology and Community Health. Meat, fish and olive oil were the key elements of the diets in terms of the cancer. Meat and fish combined were positively associated with the incidence of cancer but olive oil had a negative effect.

The researchers suspect olive oil protects against bowel cancer by influencing the metabolism of the gut. They think it cuts the amount of a substance called deoxycyclic acid and regulates the enzyme diamine oxidase which may be linked to cell division in the bowel. "The olive oil seems to reduce the amount of bile acid and increase the levels of the enzyme thought to beneficially regulate cell turnover in the gut," Goldacre said in a telephone interview. Meat has the opposite effect because it tends to increase the amount of bile acid. Earlier animal studies have shown the benefits of olive oil over safflower and fish oil on pre-cancerous cells and tumour growth.

Japanese scientists also claim that virgin olive oil applied to the skin after sunbathing could protect against skin cancer by slowing tumour growth. Colon cancer is the second most common cancer in many Western countries. It is much more prevalent in the industrialised world than in developing nations in Asia and Africa. The main treatment is surgery to remove the cancerous area of the bowel and chemotherapy if the disease has spread.


March 29, 2000
MS WebMD Medical News
Extra-Virgin Olive Oil Reduces Need for Blood Pressure Medication
-- Elizabeth Tracey

People on high blood pressure medications may be able to reduce the amount of medicine they take if they substitute extra-virgin olive oil for other types of fats in their diet, a study in the March 27 issue of the journal Archives of Internal Medicine reports.

"The most important finding in this study is that the daily use of olive oil, about 40 grams per day, markedly reduces the dosage of [blood pressure medication] by about 50% in hypertensive patients on a previously stable drug dosage," says L. Aldo Ferrara, MD, associate professor of internal medicine at the Frederico II University of Naples in Naples, Italy, and the study's lead author.

Forty grams per day of extra-virgin olive oil amounts to about four tablespoons, Ferrara tells WebMD. That is the amount men in this study consumed, with women consuming about three tablespoons. Each study participant had high blood pressure and was on medicine to control it. Each ate a diet comprised of 17% protein, 57% carbohydrates, 35 grams of fiber, and 26% total fats with 5.8% saturated fats, per day for six months. Participants were assigned to receive the majority of their fats from either extra virgin olive oil or sunflower oil. Then each participant was switched to the other type of oil for an additional six months.

During the 12-month study, regular measurements of blood pressure were taken, and when blood pressure fell, the dose of blood pressure medication was reduced.

"Daily dosage of [blood pressure medication] was reduced by 48% during the olive oil diet and by 4% during the sunflower oil diet," reports Ferrara. "In particular, blood pressure was controlled without any medication in eight patients during the olive oil diet but none during the sunflower oil diet.

Ferrara explains that only extra-virgin olive oil contains antioxidants called "polyphenols," which he and his fellow researchers think may be responsible for the drop in blood pressure seen in this study. Polyphenols are completely absent from sunflower oil, according to Ferrara and colleagues.

Alice Lichtenstein, DSc, professor of nutrition at the Jean Mayer U.S. Department of Agriculture Human Nutrition Research Center on Aging at Tufts University, reviewed the study for WebMD. "This is an interesting finding, but there are lots of interesting findings," she tells WebMD. "I'm not aware of a relationship between polyphenols and [high blood pressure], and from a public health perspective I'm not sure it has much utility. I just saw a study recently where a diet containing 600 calories of chocolate a day had health benefits the authors are also attributing to the polyphenols in chocolate. But does this mean we should all be consuming 600 calories a day of chocolate or 40 grams a day of extra-virgin olive oil? This study needs to be followed up, and I hope that no one reduces their [blood pressure] medicines and starts consuming extra-virgin olive oil based on this one study."

Lichtenstein also cautions that not all extra-virgin olive oils are the same, and that more complete characterization of exactly what is in each brand of oil also needs to be done before its health benefits can be assured.

Patricia Darragh, a spokeswoman for the California Olive Oil Council, says council members have heard anecdotal reports of a beneficial effect of olive oil on blood pressure. "I believe there are studies underway, but we're not including this in our educational materials yet," she tells WebMD. "We do support the findings of an American Heart Association study comparing rates of cardiovascular disease and types of fats consumed around the world suggesting that consumption of olive oil has clear health benefits. Olive oil still has calories, of course, so substitution for other types of fats is necessary."

Vital Information: Patients with high blood pressure who substitute extra-virgin olive oil in their diets for other types of fat can reduce the amount of medication they need by half, according to a new study. Researchers suspect that substances in extra-virgin olive oil known as antioxidant polyphenols are responsible for the reduction of blood pressure in these patients. One expert cautions that these results need to be followed up with more research before advising patients to consume 40 grams per day of extra-virgin olive oil.

January 13, 1999
San Francisco Chronicle, Food Section
The 'Noses' Know About California's Olive Oil
-- Janet Fletcher, Chronicle Staff Writer
Sense of smell. Now the California olive oil industry has noses too. In November, two dozen people passed a rigorous sensory test to become the first official evaluation panel for the fledgling California Olive Oil Council, a private group of growers and producers.

These supersmellers will pass judgement on the oils submitted to the council for evaluation, awarding seals to those that meet the international standards for extra virgin olive oil. Panelists say the program will promote equality among California's olive oil producers and bring the oils international respect.

Not a moment too soon, says Paul Vossen, the University of California Cooperative Extension farm advisor in Sonoma County. Vossen had been working for several years with olive growers and oil marketers in his county, most of them newcomers to this adolescent industry. All saw a niche for high-quality oil from California, but few knew how to produce it.

"Some (oils) were quite awful, to be honest with you," admits Vossen, who spent a 1996 sabbatical in Spain and Italy looking for guidance. "We were going to get an industry started off on the wrong foot. Producers couldn't identify rancidity or any of the other common defects. So I said, "Let's learn what these defects are and learn how to make oils that conform to international standards."

Two years ago, Vossen organized a three day class at the University of California at Davis to begin educating growers, marketers, retailers and others about oil quality. A professional taster from the International Olive Oil Council in Madrid taught the 35 attendees how to recognize defects, which is the focus of professional oil tasting. So many people were turned away that Vossen organized a second class a year later, hoping he might find, among the two groups, enough great palates to form a professional tasting panel.

Last September, Vossen and Roberto Zecca, who owns Frantoio restaurant in Mill Valley, went to Greece to be trained by the council as tasting panel supervisors. In October, they invited the previous class participants to three practice sessions, a sort of cram course for a final tasting exam. The participants practiced how to discern, by smell alone, the four dreaded defects in olive oil: rancidity, mustiness, fustiness, (think dirty gym socks) and a vinegary or winy aroma that results from an undesired fermentation.

But as the sniffers learned, it's not enough to find the defect. They also must evaluate its intensity. In the final exam, modeled after the council's technical tastings, tasters faced three flights of 11 oils each.

In each flight, one oil had no defects but the other 10 had the same flaw, and they were lined up in order of the flaw's intensity. The challenge? To put a 12th sample in its proper place in the lineup.

. . .[Thomas] Oden [a chef at Jordan Winery in Healdsburg] and his co-chef, Franco Dunn, were among the 12 top scorers, earning them a place on the California Olive Oil Council panel. . . "I think people who cook for a living have an advantage", Oden says, "because we spend so much time and energy trying to make focused perceptions. Does this need more salt, more garlic? Is this satisfactory, or is it lacking something?". . .

. . .the panelists [began] meeting regularly to certify California oils and to continue their training. Vossen's goal is to have the tasters recognized by the International Olive Oil Council as an official international panel. . . . . . Now, Vossen says, consumers can have more confidence in the COOC seal. Although producers don't have to submit their oils and no federal or state laws define "extra virgin". COOC-certified oils will meet IOOC standards for that term: They will have less than 1 percent acidity, no defects and some positive attributes such as pungency and fruitiness. . .

Research Study Shows Positive Effects of Olive Oil on Hypertension

People on high blood pressure medications may be able to reduce the amount of medicine they take if they substitute extra virgin olive oil for other types of fats in their diet, a study in the March 27, 2000 issue of the journal, Archives of Internal Medicine, reports. "The most important finding in this study is that the daily use of olive oil, about 40 grams per day, markedly reduces the dosage of (blood pressure medication) by about 50% in patients on a previously stable drug dosage" says L. Aldo Ferrara, M.D., Associate Professor of Internal Medicine at the Frederico II University of Naples in Naples, Italy and the study's author.

During the 12 month study, "daily dosages of blood pressure medication was reduced by 48 % during the olive oil diet and by 4% during the sunflower oil diet" reports Ferrara. Ferrara explains that only extra virgin olive oil contains antioxidants called "polyphenols", which he and his fellow researchers think may be responsible for the drop in blood pressure seen in this study. Polyphenols are completely absent from sunflower oil, according to Ferrara and his colleagues. Continued research in this area is expected.

Health Benefits of Olive Oil

For centuries, olive oil has been used to maintain the suppleness of skin and muscle, to heal abrasions, to give body and sheen to hair and soothe the drying effects of sun and wind. Additionally, olive oil has been utilized in folk remedies for an array of uses; strengthening weak nails, aiding in digestion, curing the effects of alcohol consumption, relieving aching muscles, lowering blood pressure and many other uses.

Recently, research has provided proof that a Mediterranean style diet, including olive oil, is a healthy diet and that olive oil may reduce cholesterol levels. The American Heart Association found that in researching the modern day diet that Greece and especially the island of Crete had the lowest mortality rate due to cardio-vascular illness. Finland and the United States had the highest mortality rate. The only notable difference between the countries was the type of fat ingested. In countries with high incidents of cardio-vascular disease, saturated fats were most often consumed. Saturated fats are high in cholesterol. Monounsaturates, on the other hand, contain no cholesterol.

Fats and lipids are essential to a well balanced diet. They divide into saturates and unsaturates depending on whether they have simple or double bonds between their carbon groups. Fatty acids that have one double are monounsaturates. Polyunsaturates have several double bonds. Olive oil contains unsaturated fatty acids. Oleic acid and linoleic acid are two unsaturated fatty acids. Olive oil is 80% oleic acid, placing it at the top of the list of monounsaturated fats. Saturated fatty acids are found in animal fats such as butter and lard.

There are 2 types of cholesterol; low density (LDL) and high density (HDL). LDL's transport and deposit cholesterol in the tissues and arteries. LDL levels increase with a high intake of saturated fatty acids and is harmful. HDL eliminates cholesterol from the cells and carries it into the liver where it is passed through the bile ducts. While polyunsaturates reduce both the LDL and HDL, monounsaturates reduce LDL while increasing HDL. HDL is often referred to as the " good cholesterol". An increase in the levels of HDL will not only provide protection against cholesterol deposits, but it will actually reduce cholesterol levels in the body. Research has proved that using olive oil significantly increases HDL levels and that olive oil is the main source of monounsaturated fatty acids.

Top of Page